The original Shorty's in Toco Hills is a decidedly quirky place. The latest incarnation of this creative pizza joint continues the tradition, with a menu and a vibe that's all over the place — and there's even live music on some Friday and Saturday nights.

SCATTERED STYLE: From the highway, Shorty's looks like an oversized version of one of those barn-shaped outbuildings they sell at Home Depot. Inside, one wall is lined with hammered copper shingles, another is hung with Japanese-style lanterns. An alcove in back is home to a disheveled stage with an upright piano that recalls some roadhouse scene. If you want a really action-packed perch, have a seat at the end of the bar, near the pizza oven, kitchen and hectic servers' station. For more serene seating, choose a spot outside on the landscaped, sheltered patio.

Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
The star of the menu is pizza, including the Thin White Duke with fennel-flavored sausage, roasted tomatoes and onions.
MOST POPULAR STORIES Gospel singer Dottie Rambo dies in tour bus wreck in Mo. Brushes with death standard for 'Deadliest Catch' star David Archuleta's dad loses 'American Idol' backstage pass Walters: Jones going through 'difficult time' Eagles, others give guitar collectors 'feast for the eyes'
EMAIL THIS PRINT THIS MOST POPULAR

WOOD-FIRED: As in Toco Hills, the main attraction here is the thin-crust pizza, baked in a wood-fired Italian brick oven. It comes in 10-inch or 14-inch sizes, with your choice of more than 40 toppings divided into three price points denoted as "regular" (pepperoni, sausage, arugula); "rock star" (prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella and artichoke hearts); and "super star" (white anchovies, shrimp, Sopressata). Shorty's signature pies are all named for musicians, such as the aromatic Ravi Shankar, with curry oil, roasted veggies and cilantro-mint chutney; and the meaty Sid Vicious, with ham, salami, sausage, pepperoni and ground beef. The Bowie-inspired Thin White Duke doesn't contain cocaine or milk. It's actually a satisfying melange of fennel-flavored sausage and roasted tomatoes and onions that's dressed with fresh cilantro just before serving. But what makes almost any pie worth getting, when it's done right, is the nicely charred crust that is crispy and air.

MASHED AND GRILLED: The addictive, mashed-to-order guacamole has made the transition from Toco Hills to Tucker in fine style. The blend of chunky avocados, with lots of lime, bits of tomato, onion and cilantro, comes in a bowl arranged with crackly shards of flatbread for scooping. Alas, another favorite, the spaghetti squash salad, is missing. But there are eight other salads, ranging from simple rocket with lemon oil and parmesan to a huge chopped salad loaded with bacon, green olives, hearts of palm, mushrooms and ranch dressing. Entree selections include a wood-grilled burger with roasted potatoes, and a surprisingly tasty buttermilk chicken breast, which comes sliced and plated with a mound of garlic mashed potatoes and grilled corn on the cob.

ON STAGE: With a decent beer and wine list and a full selection of liquors, Shorty's has already evolved into something of a neighborhood bar. Blues guitarist Oliver Wood and the Michelle Malone Band are booked for shows in the coming weeks.

HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays (later on music nights)

PRICES: Appetizers and salads, $4-$10; main dishes, $9-$14; pizzas, $8-$15

CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards accepted

RESERVATIONS: Accepted for large parties

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Pizza, guacamole, salads

PARKING: On site

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking

NOISE LEVEL: Moderate to high

TAKEOUT: Yes

VERDICT: Tucker location of Toco Hills pizza joint continues the quirky tradition and adds live music.