The catfish is out; the seared salmon and blackened mahi mahi are in. It's a sign of the changing face of Smyrna that the once popular Uncle Bud's Catfish has given way to Varner's Restaurant and Tavern, a definitely more upscale gathering space. And that meant most of what was inside the place on Concord Road had to go.

"We bought the place in May of last year and gutted it entirely," said manager Dave Ullian. "The building is massive, so it gave us room to add a larger patio, a pool room and a separate bar area where we allow smoking. The main dining area seats almost 150, with 40 seats at booths and high-top tables in the bar."

Andy Sharp/AJC Staff (ENLARGE)
The Gorgonzola and spinach ravioli, served with sliced hanger steak and a garlic cream sauce, has been a successful entree for Varner's Restaurant and Tavern. The Smyrna restaurant opened in June after more than a year of renovations to a former catfish house. The new restaurant boasts a patio, pool room and separate bar.
MOST POPULAR STORIES Who are metro Atlanta's sexiest men? 'Housewives' star forced to move from Duluth home Prosecutor: Jealousy behind Hudson family killings Tyler Perry takes the stand in copyright lawsuit CBS to show story of Cobb teacher with Tourette's
EMAIL THIS PRINT THIS MOST POPULAR

The transformation took so long that people are almost surprised to find it's finished.

"We opened in mid-June, but they don't know we're here yet," Ullian said.

American and more

The interior may be a bit posh, but the menu is casual.

One of the main attractions is a lineup of burgers, from the basic 8-ounce patty with a choice of cheeses to the black bean version with roasted red peppers, garlic mayo and red onion. Variations on the chicken sandwiches include a fried buttermilk breast in wing sauce topped with Swiss and grilled ham; smoked with bacon; or wrapped with blue cheese in a tortilla.

There's also a selection of salads, sandwiches, wings, dips and munchies.

The main dish success so far is the Gorgonzola and spinach ravioli topped with sliced hanger steak in a garlic cream sauce. Other options include filet, seared salmon with mushroom bread pudding, twin blackened mahi mahi filets, chicken penne, and shrimp scampi.

"Our goal is to make simple comfort food a little bit better," Ullian said.

From the bar

The full bar carries 48 beers on draft and more than 110 in the bottle. The short wine list sports seven reds and six whites, by the glass only for no more than $7. There's also a full martini list and daily drink specials.

Looking for company after 11 p.m.? The bar stays open late for drinks and serves a limited menu. Catch up on your late-night viewing on more than 30 high-def TVs, or play a round of billards or darts. On Tuesday nights, play team trivia. A live music lineup is in the works. Guests must be 21 or older.

• Signature dish: Gorgonzola and spinach ravioli with hanger steak

•Entree price range: $14-$16

• Hours: 11 a.m.-4 a.m. Mondays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-3 a.m. Saturdays; noon-midnight Sundays

• Reservations: Yes

• Credit cards: Yes

•Web site: www.varnerstavern.com