Being an Atlanta native is often like watching a warm face of an old friend being wiped of any familiarity with a face-lift. New construction and the demise of old landmarks have arguably done more to harm the heritage of the city's landscape than Gen. William T. Sherman and his troops.

So part of the charm of the Vinings Inn comes from the preservation of its 19th-century digs while aligning it with au courant versions of Southern prototypes. Sitting on its deck with elbows on a crisp white tablecloth, surrounded by age-old trees, the hustle and bustle traffic buzzing in the background, and the warmth of grits in the back of my throat elicits a thought: Yes, this is Atlanta.

Phil Skinner/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
The 'Bear Room' is one of several intimate dining areas offered at the Vinings Inn.
Phil Skinner/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
At the Vinings Inn, try the caramelized onion and goat-cheese-encrusted fried green tomatoes with diced tomatoes, two balsamic vinegar reductions and fresh herbs.
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Going south

In August, new owners and managers gained control, adding a few dining room renovations and a new menu courtesy of executive chef Victor Amato. Amato has a knack for updating regional recipes. The fried green tomatoes come with a little extra crunch. A caramelized onion crust encases the veggie spheres and a thin creamy layer of goat cheese. With each bite, the delicate cheese and tomato contrast with the crackling surface. The trout dip has far more smokiness than fishiness, making it a pleasant topping to the crispy toast bits. And the Cajun charm of the lunch menu's crawfish fritters come with the Louisiana-inspired flavor of a side of hurricane sauce and ranch dressing originating from its sister restaurant, the River Room.

Different kind

The conservatively tidy dining rooms and upscale air give way to laid-back lunches. A handful of sandwiches, like a house burger, claim responsibility. With the Real Ham and Egger, a duo of fried eggs, melted cheddar, ham, tomato and lettuce stacked on Texas toast bring casual charm. But higher-brow entrees make the afternoon roster, too. Most notable is the shrimp and grits, a classic Vinings Inn holdover. This don't-dare-skip bundle of shrimp, andouille sausage, bell peppers and onion slivers has an awakening punch of spice in the form of lemon butter pan sauce. At night, fancier options come to dinner, as do heftier prices. Few dinner entrees fall into the lower $20 range. For our next experience, we'll make sure and pack both a serious appetite and budget for offerings like the grilled pork chop marinated in butter.

Closers and nightcaps

Fruit sits atop the caramelized sugar lid of the vanilla creme brûlée. Other classics like pecan pie and peach cobbler help things end in Southern style. But if your idea of dessert comes in a glass, barkeeps shake and slosh libations in the upstairs Attic Bar, where live music cranks up Tuesday through Saturday nights. And bar guests have access to a scaled-down menu of sandwiches and appetizers.

Despite Atlanta's ever-changing environs, Vinings Inn knows the value of combining old-school appeal and new-school kitchen sense with class and style.

THE VININGS INN
• Where: 3011 Paces Mill Road, Atlanta. 770-438-2282, www.viningsinn.com.
• Hours: Lunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Attic Bar Mondays-Saturdays 4-11 p.m. Closed Sundays.
• Reservations: Yes.
• Recommended dishes: Fried green tomatoes, trout dip, shrimp and grits, creme brûlée.
• Prices: Appetizers, soups and salads $5-$15; sandwiches $7-$10; lunch entrees $14-$21; dinner entrees $24-$32; desserts $5-$7.
• Verdict: Classy Southern fare in a time-honored setting.