The former Ethan Patrick's was barely a memory when Brian Jones jumped on the Canton location for his latest venture, Cafe 190.

"I'd been searching for the right space," said Jones. "I'd sold a restaurant I owned at Big Canoe and wanted to do something in Canton, where I've lived for 13 years. I really saw the need to do something that would break up the monotony of the chain restaurants."

Renee Brock/special (ENLARGE)
Banana crème brûlée is on the dessert menu at Cafe 190 in Canton. 'Handcrafted American food' is the focus, chef Brian Jones says. -------------------- Potato-wrapped catfish, roasted beets with goat cheese and spaghetti squash.
Renee Brock/special (ENLARGE)
Potato-wrapped catfish, roasted beets with goat cheese and spaghetti squash.
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Cafe 190 • Where: 190 Main Street, Canton, 770-345-0033 • Signature dish: boneless pork chops stuffed with apples, bacon, pecans • Entree prices: $11.99-$20 • Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays • Reservations: yes • Credit cards: yes • Web site: www.cafe190.com

The former chef, whose resumé includes the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead and the defunct 1848 House in Marietta, snapped up the space at 190 E. Main Street, across from the county courthouse, a day after it was vacated. The first order of business was to change the look with new colors and artwork geared toward food. Giant pictures of fish and fruit now surround the 76 seats in the main dining room. The space is warmed by exposed brick walls and wood-topped tables.

"The goal was to create a casual restaurant, a cheap, high-quality, good place where you can eat twice a week," he said.

Comfort food

Jones describes the cafe's focus as "handcrafted American food — making the familiar new and the new familiar." The familiar is meatloaf; the new, it's made with roasted garlic and veal. Grilled chicken breast and a fried drumstick are topped with a rosemary and lemon gravy. The macaroni and cheese, a main course, is mixed with cheddar and goat cheese, shiitake mushrooms, onions, mustard greens and walnuts.

There's also an ever-changing choice of ravioli; a classic chicken pot pie; beef tenderloin with a port and black peppercorn sauce; and a boneless pork chop stuffed with pecans, apples and bacon. Seafood selections include crab cakes with a lemon and thyme vinaigrette; scallops with mushrooms, leeks and carrots; and potato-wrapped catfish. Fill up on a clam bake any night, with clams, shrimp, corn, potatoes and ham.

Hearty starters are big enough to share. Pick from a sharp cheddar cheese dip with apples for scooping; crispy sweet potato skins; and a mixed platter of shrimp and country ham, hush puppies and clams. Or be surprised with the chef's special of the evening — six different items that may change throughout the evening based on the chef's whim.

A lineup of side dishes can be ordered for one or a family. The options change regularly but may include grilled corn on the cob, mustard greens with brown sugar, fried green tomatoes or steamed broccoli with Parmesan and lemon.

A party of eight or more can enjoy the family-style dinner, two meats and three sides for $18.99 per person, or three meats and four sides for $20.99 per person.

From the bar

More than two-dozen domestic bottled beers, including many local artisan brews, are priced at $4. There are more than 60 wine choices, largely from California, Washington and Oregon, with a few locals represented (Wolf Mountain in Dahlonega is one). Most of the wines are available by the glass.

Future plans

The two-story space has room for dining upstairs. Jones plans on doing a jazz bar with small plates on the second floor.