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NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Cafe Sunflower
2140 Peachtree Road, Atlanta, 404-352-8859

Published on: 11/22/2007

THE SOUTH BUCKHEAD offshoot of the popular and long-running Cafe Sunflower in Sandy Springs could be the perfect antidote to the gluttony and bustle of the holiday season. The contemporary vegetarian cuisine isn't exactly spa food, but it's definitely healthy stuff. And as a reward for being good, there's beer and wine, and plenty of dessert indulgences.

STYLISHLY SERENE: Compared with the original location, the Buckhead spot is a bit more sophisticated, both in the menu offerings and the surroundings. The dining room is stylish in a sort of hippie-meets-Malibu way. And when it's not too crowded, the feeling is decidedly serene, with simple wooden tables and booths, and dangling art lights that resemble Japanese lanterns. Solo diners can enjoy perusing the stash of vegetarian cookbooks — including the 2006 "Cafe Sunflower: Recipes You Can Cook at Home" by the restaurant's chef/owner, Lin Sun.

Becky Stein/SPECIAL
Cafe Sunflower's south Buckhead location features a stylish setting and a vegetarian menu that includes a Japanese-style bento box filled with spring rolls, stuffed mushrooms, steamed dumplings and hummus, along with pita points and carrot, cucumber and celery sticks.
 
Becky Stein/SPECIAL
Cafe Sunflower in Buckhead
 
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VEGGIE DREAMS: Sun's cooking uses the flavors of Asia, Mexico, the Mediterranean and the Caribbean for fresh takes on everything from hearty soups and bright salads to dishes that incorporate quinoa, cornmeal, wheat flour and soy. Orzo eggplant lasagna layers eggplant, portabella mushrooms, zucchini, roasted red pepper, orzo pasta and tofu ricotta. A Southern polenta napoleon is cornmeal cakes, artichokes, mushrooms, tofu, mock ham and vegetables. There's also more standard vegetarian fare, such as a black bean burrito and a veggie burger. On a recent evening, the special salad was an utterly satisfying mix of endive, baby spinach, thinly sliced pear, candied walnuts and blue cheese crumbles. But the Sunflower Box may be the most entertaining item on the menu. Served in a Japanese-style bento box, it's a colorful, cross-cultural sampler offering spring rolls, stuffed mushrooms, steamed dumplings, and hummus, accompanied by whole wheat pita points and sticks of carrot, cucumber and celery. It makes a good share for two or a light meal for one.

DRINKS & SWEETS: Alcoholic beverages are a rarity in vegetarian restaurants. Sunflower Buckhead's list isn't extensive, but it's reasonably priced. And the fact that you can order a glass of pinot noir or a Sierra Nevada at dinner certainly makes for a much more enjoyable experience. Cake is the thing for dessert, including carrot spice, coconut layer and chocolate peanut butter mousse. And look for cobblers made with seasonal fruits.

HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, noon-2:30 p.m. Saturdays; dinner, 5-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays (closed Sundays)
CREDIT CARDS: All major.
PRICES: Soups and salads, $3.95-$8.95; starters, $3.95-$12.95; entrees, $8.95-$16.
RESERVATIONS: Yes
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Sunflower box, soups, salads, pasta dishes
PARKING: Lot parking
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: No smoking
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: A surprisingly stylish lunch or dinner spot for creative vegetarian cuisine.

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