NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Lime Taqueria
4600 West Village Place, Smyrna, 678-309-1113


For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 12/20/2007

What diners first need to know about the new Lime Taqueria in Smyrna is a bit of history. It starts with the parents of Rene Diaz coming from Cuba and running an ethnic market in Midtown. That small grocery eventually became Diaz Foods, a firm that today supplies more than 3,000 customers (many of them restaurants) with products imported from Mexico, Argentina, Colombia, Costa Rica, Brazil and beyond.

Growing up, Jesse Diaz's family was close to their neighbors with the same last name (and no relation otherwise). "My family came from Cuba, too, so we became friends," said Jesse Diaz. "But we grew up and went our separate ways. I managed Pricci [in Midtown] for 15 years and started talking about my own restaurant when I reconnected with Rene."

Renee Brock/Special
Lime, one of four restaurants in the mixed-use West Village project in Smyrna, has more of a Buckhead or Midtown look, its owners say.
 
Renee Brock/Special
Walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds grace the puebla en nogada, a poblano pepper stuffed with pork and a variety of fruits and nuts.
 
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Together, the two have created Lime, one of four restaurants in the mixed-use West Village project. But the look the team went for is definitely intown, said Jesse Diaz.

"We decided to create something that's different for Smyrna," he said. "It's definitely more of a Buckhead or Midtown place."

There's room for 90 in the dining room, with another 20 seats on the front patio. The main section is done in vivid greens, yellows and red around two huge palm trees. About two dozen handmade stars dangle from the ceiling. Candles flicker on the wood-topped tables and the community table for 12. The lounge is warmed with sofas and loveseats.

Mexican, but...

Don't let the word "taqueria" fool you, warns Jesse Diaz. "Most people immediately think it's going to be very casual. If they're expecting a bowl of chips and salsa, they might be a little disappointed. But they're in for an educational night."

The lefthand side of the Lime menu is simple, street food, with tacos and appetizers, but there are also dishes you don't normally see in a Mexican restaurant. That inspiration comes from chef Oscar Mendivil, a veteran of the Ritz-Carlton and a native of Mexico. "With a chef who's Mexican and all the Mexican produce we can get, we decided we had to go with new-world Mexican cuisine," said Jesse Diaz.

One of the new hot items is sure to be the Mexico burger, a beef patty topped with guacamole, smoked bacon, red onion, poblano chiles, cheese and a side of garlic mayo. More upscale entrees include a breast of chicken on a bed of risotto in a mushroom cream sauce with Mexican truffles; and the scallops marinated in pineapple sauce with cheese and mangoes. A poblano pepper comes stuffed with pork, tomatoes, onions, garlic, peaches, apples, pears, raisins and almonds. Skirt steak is grilled over mesquite and served with mashed potatoes; Ahi-grade tuna is pan-seared and tossed with a mango avocado salsa. Grilled shrimp arrive with spaghetti squash and lime-infused spinach.

A small-plate selection, from $2.50 to $7.99, includes catfish or lime chicken tacos; pork chorizo; grilled lobster with avocado cream; fig-glazed pork loin; and the signature dish — braised steak cooked in a chile broth with green olives, potato strips, raisins and carrots and wrapped in a corn husk.

From the bar

More than 30 tequilas are on the shelf. Juice for the mojitos is squeezed fresh to order. Margaritas and martinis have their own list.

A large selection of bottled beers includes a few from Mexico. Most of the wine hails from California and South America and is available by the glass or bottle.

Coming up

Plans to add lunch service are in the works for late January. The owners also expect to add live entertainment and possible salsa dancing down the road.

LIME

Where: 4600 West Village Place, Smyrna, 30080, 678-309-1113

Signature dishes: braised steak cooked in a chile broth with green olives, potato strips, raisins and carrots and wrapped in a corn husk; a Mexican burger with grilled onions, poblano chiles, cheese, smoked bacon and yuca fries

Entree prices: $11.99-$22.99

Hours: 5:30-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays

Reservations: for large parties

Credit cards: yes

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