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You wouldn't guess that El Bohio Cubano is on its third owner in seven years — the latest a family from Guatemala. Next month, the new owners are planning to change the name to Nevandra's and roll out some Guatemalan additions, like an enormous seafood soup called tapado. But, as their repeat customers demand, they are keeping their core Cuban menu the same, as it was passed down to them from two prior Cuban owners.

GAVIN AVERILL/special (ENLARGE)
The picadillo con arroz y maduros is ground beef with tomatoes seasoned with garlic and onions and served with yellow rice and sweet plantains.
GAVIN AVERILL/special (ENLARGE)
The maduros — delectable fried sweet plantains — are a highlight of the family-friendly menu at El Bohio.
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Cuban sandwiches are popular here, but beef dishes are a better choice. Picadillo, ground beef sauteed with soft cubes of potato, is real Cuban comfort food. El Bohio's tastes like it omits the traditional olives and raisins, which makes it a little more neutral but ultimately well-suited as not only an entree but the base for some of the best appetizers. It fills the beef empanada, which was hot and crunchy, and slightly sweet, and the papa rellena, a fried ball of fluffy mashed potatoes rolled around a picadillo center. It was nicely seasoned and cooked — crunchy on the outside, tangy and creamy inside.

The masas de puerco fritas, fried pork chunks, were a little dry and overcooked, but sprang to life with a few squirts of delicious ahi — garlic — sauce, the one Guatemalan modification to the table prepared by owner Byron Solares. The green condiment is brought out with every dish and is made with visible slivers of garlic, lots of fresh cilantro, lime juice and vinegar.

The ropa vieja, or "old clothes," which is also served as an entree, is offered as an appetizer over tostones, crunchy green plantains. A little like a Cuban version of pulled barbecue, the flank steak in this dish is slow cooked for hours in a tomato sauce with garlic and peppers. When it's done, it looks like strips of clothing but tastes much better than it sounds.

Other popular items marked to try on a subsequent visit are the bistec de Palomilla and the popular Friday special, bistec cebollado, steak cooked with onions. All entrees are served with choice of French fries, rice and black beans or congris (rice and beans that have been cooked together) and tostones or the sublime maduros, sliced mature yellow plantains sauteed in vegetable oil. They couldn't be easier to make, but they are scrumptious.

El Bohio doesn't serve alcohol, but avoid the temptation to try a smoothie, or batido de fruta natural. They come in numerous flavors, such as guava, papaya, blackberry, lemon, passion fruit, strawberry and melon, and are blended with ice and mixed with a choice of water or milk. Servers said they are made from fresh fruit, but if they were, an oppressive wall of chalky sweetness held them back. Go with a soft drink to save room for the yummy appetizers.

The desserts, too, felt a little tacked-on and not nearly as loved as the appetizers or entrees. The rice pudding and the tres leches cake may have been sold out for a reason. The remaining choices were a flan that seemed processed and may have even been sliced off a larger hunk in the back. The cold, possibly canned guava shells with cream cheese were also disappointing.

But then again, Cuban food is not renowned for its desserts. For something sweet after your meal, opt for the empanada appetizer with guava jelly and cream cheese, which can be savory or sweet. Better yet, a plate of maduros, like a dry version of bananas Foster, with a sweet cup of cafe con leche would make an excellent dessert.

Brightly lit, El Bohio may not be the place for a romantic dinner, but for a casual meal, including breakfast, it's worth a try. The atmosphere is friendly, family-like and casual. From the swelling music of the telenovelas on the TVs to the homey plastic tumblers covered in colorful fish and flowers, it feels like you're eating at abuelita's house. Dishes are prepared the moment you order them, and all the appetizers and entrees are served hot and tasted fresh. Servers do not mind being asked questions about their dishes. With such success copying Cuban plates, the recipe reverence is likely to show up even stronger in the upcoming Guatemalan menu additions.

• Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays (will start opening at 8 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays starting in January; Sunday hours will stay the same)
• Reservations: Yes, but not required
• Recommended dishes: Beef empanada, papa rellena, ropa vieja, maduros
• Prices: appetizers: $1.50-$6.85; entrees: $6.75-$11.95; desserts: $2.50
• Web site: www.elbohiocubano.com
• Verdict: Stick to the core menu of meaty entrees and lovingly prepared appetizers at this family-owned, no-fuss cafe. Don't miss the sublime maduros.