With counter service and no frills, Dalia's Grill brings Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines to the table in a no-nonsense snap.

Phil Skinner/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Heaping helpings of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern foods are found at Dalia's Grill. The gyro plate, with Greek salad, is a classic.
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Guests sidle up to the counter where chalkboards spell out the menu in enough colors to rival a box of crayons. During peak hours lines typically stretch from the register to the door. But diners have plenty to look at while they wait. Glass cases hold an assortment of salads and pasta. Heaps of tabbouleh, apple salad and more wait for a server to dive in for a scoop.

A smattering of contemporary art decorates the walls, although most of the store dressing consists of generic posters and table tents proclaiming "gyros," a toothy model gripping a sandwich.

MORE THAN ENOUGH

Enormous entrees arrive piled and packed to capacity. Both lamb and chicken gyros are available. Ours comes with strips of lamb and tzatziki sauce threatening to drip out of the end. The conservatively seasoned meat mingles well with hunks of tomato and slivers of lettuce. Sandwiches aren't strictly meat affairs, with an ample falafel sandwich available, too.

The chicken kabobs come wrapped in a thin pita blanket. Inside sit two lengthy skewers. One pierces through alternating veggies (onions, tomatoes and green peppers), while the other holds a hefty collection of grilled chicken chunks.

Entrees come with a choice of salad. The slightly rich and ever so creamy hummus provides plenty of dipping for the enclosed pita slices. Even the gyro's french fries make ace dipping utensils. The tastefully lumpy babaghanouj with eggplant and other vegetables works by the forkful or as a pita topper.

DESSERT FLAKE OUT

Flaky triangles of baklava sit in plastic containers in front of the register next to small bags of chips. The strategically placed dessert tempts us to submission. A thin layer of honey sweetens up the flaky exterior, which houses a small package of crunch.

Quick, authentic and affordable, Dalia's Grill hits the mark with a stripped down selection of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern grub low in flash but big in flavor and size.

• Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sundays.
• Reservations: No.
• Recommended dishes: Lamb gyro, chicken kabob, baba ghanouj, hummus, baklava.
• Prices: Entrees and sandwiches $5-$10.
• Verdict: Authentic, affordable Mediterranean and Middle Eastern grub.