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Abbott's Bar & Grill could easily go the route of the upper-crust steakhouse, calling for business-minded dress and martini lunches. Despite the crackling fireplace, the spacious, sprawling bar and mammoth artwork, Abbott's stays laid back. The environment remains a luxury while the food spans casual cool to culinary splurge.

Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
Photos by PHIL SKINNER / Staff Blackened chicken breast, dots of black sesame seeds, lumps of mandarin oranges and crunchy bits of wontons decorate the Chinese chicken salad from Abbotts Bar & Grill in Johns Creek.
Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
The fried lobster tail encases moist meat lining the top of the tail.
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FRIED, GLORIOUS, FRIED

The golden, deep-fried theme begins early. With each initial bite, the fried artichoke hearts pop with a deliciously oily burst. We alternate dipping them in the lemon aioli and chipotle sauces that come on the side. The creamy smoothness of the spinach artichoke dip provides a nice contrast to the fried nuggets as semi-lumpy dips of spread smear onto crunchy tortilla chips.

The almost overly crunchy fried lobster tail small plate encases moist meat lining the top of the tail. On the other end of the spectrum, delectable bracelet-size onion rings arrive next to a hefty hunk of burger, the bacon, sauteed onions and 'shrooms dangling from the side.

ON THE HEALTHY SIDE

Not everything gets dipped in the fryer at Abbott's. Blackened chicken breast, dots of black sesame seeds, lumps of mandarin oranges and crunchy bits of wontons decorate the Chinese chicken salad. Its grouper sandwich remains a lunchtime favorite, while orders of lemon basil chicken and a small selection of pastas roll out of the kitchen throughout the evening. The shoestring veggie side dish delivers tiny strips of stir-fried bliss with twists of onions tangling with carrots and more.

Or just blow the whole thing with something like the apple pie a la mode, tiramisu or warm chocolate cake.

• Web site: www.abbottsbarandgrill.com.
• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.
• Reservations: Yes.
• Recommended dishes: Fried artichoke hearts, fried lobster tail, Chinese chicken salad, Abbott's cheeseburger.
• Prices: Entrees and sandwiches $8.55-$24.45.
• Verdict: Be it an order of hot wings or a New York strip, Abbott's executes both class and comfort with a touch of steakhouse swagger.