The word "quirky" is so overused nowadays. But it really is the best way to describe Lamplighter Cafe — an idiosyncratic coffee bar and restaurant, with an eclectic menu of starters, salads, sandwiches, and breakfast items.

Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Pain Perdue from the Brunch Menu: Baguette sliced and sauteed in a sweet vanilla egg wash, topped with fruit and maple syrup.
Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
In a neighborhood that's a combination of gritty and arty, the Lamplighter Cafe has the look of a hipster hole-in-the-wall.
Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
From the brunch menu: A baguette is sliced and sauteed in a sweet vanilla egg wash, topped with fruit and syrup.
Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
The Tara: Seasonal cheeses, mixed fruits, Italian meats and hummus.
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HIPSTER EDGE: Located between Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard and Memorial Drive (in a rather desolate but rapidly changing loft neighborhood near Grant Park, not far from Eyedrum art space), Lamplighter is housed in a brightly painted cinderblock building. Owner Erick Newman is a veteran of several intown restaurants, including, most recently, the similarly styled Solstice Cafe in Grant Park. But at Lamplighter, Newman has taken the hipster hole-in-the-wall concept to even more minimalist extremes. An edgy concrete patio adjacent to a dumpster leads to a thrift-store-chic dining area appointed with tile-covered tables. Adding to the studied oddity, most dishes are plated on a piece of tile, and most drinks are served up in Ball jars. The young staff echoes the atmosphere, rendering cheerfully spacey service.

BREAKFAST TO BRUNCH: Breakfast is served weekdays until 11 a.m. And brunch is the big draw on the weekends. Morning regulars gravitate to the Standard Joe: two eggs any style, with bacon or ham, potatoes or grits, and toast for $5.95. Other regular morning offerings include pancakes; granola and yogurt, with seasonal fruit; and build-your-own omelets, frittatas and wraps, with a variety of meats, cheeses and veggies. The brunch menu expands to include the likes of a crab and Swiss cheese omelet and huevos rancheros. The Monte Cristo is a savory-sweet take on the ham and cheese classic, topped with berry sauce.

LUNCH AND MUNCH: Lunch draws workers from the Capitol, who tie into tuna salad and curried chicken sandwiches. The burger is a big, juicy, seasoned patty, with bacon and melted Swiss, perched between slabs of focaccia bread. And the spicy, housemade chickpea hummus with bits of jalapeno peppers is a winner, available as a starter or in a wrap. But other offerings can be hit or miss. On a recent visit, the meat and cheese platter (dubbed "Tara" on the menu) was a bit tired, with thickly sliced Italian ham that was so fatty that it resembled lardo. And the crunchy napa cabbage salad, topped with fried ramen noodles and mushrooms, was simply bland. Look for beer and wine, and a new dinner menu soon.

COFFEE TIME: Action central at Lamplighter is the coffee bar, where traditional Lavazza espresso gets whipped into cafe concoctions, such as pumpkin-spice latte, and the Nutty Professor, with almond, amaretto and whipped cream.

Lamplighter Cafe

280 Connally St., 404-835-7167.

HOURS: 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays; breakfast served until 11 a.m. weekdays; brunch served until 5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays

CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard, American Express

PRICES: Breakfast/brunch, $4.95-$10.95; appetizers and salads, $3.95-$12.95; sandwiches, $6.95-$8.95

RESERVATIONS: No

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Breakfast and brunch dishes; hummus; coffee drinks

PARKING: On street

TAKEOUT: Yes

VERDICT: A quirky, caffeinated cafe near the Capitol, serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner.