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The archetypical tearoom thrives in quaint femininity. Ladies pick up piping hot cups while raising a pinky and noshing on finger sandwiches in the midst of doily décor. You know, the kind of place that if you're not of petite stature, you feel as if you may break something.

Mittie's Tea Room in Roswell, the flagship of several metro locations, meets some of those expectations, sure. It bears the name of President Theodore Roosevelt's mother, Mittie Bulloch Roosevelt, a former Roswell resident, whose chicken salad recipe lives on in the kitchen. Original art, including paintings and charcoal drawings, helps add an aura of cultured calm. Outdoor tables on the front lawn have a garden party allure. But a wide selection of teas and smart soups, salads and sandwiches makes it more than an exercise in daintiness.

Bob Andres/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
High tea is available any time and includes items such as chicken salad croissant, spinach quiche and chicken pastry cup.
Bob Andres/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
A Mittie's Tea Room breakfast of Eggs Aura with salmon, capers and cream cheese.
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MITTIE'S HISTORY

Founder Lynn Brooks opened the original Roswell location in 1987. In October of 2006, her mother-in-law, Kate Brooks, and partner Khalil Brooks kept things in the family and purchased the Roswell shop. All other Mittie's locations are franchises. In April 2007, Lynn Brooks opened a Mittie's in Norcross.

TEA FOR YOU

You get two menus at Mittie's: one for tea, the other for eats. The tea list is thorough enough for just the right amount of diversity without being too exhaustive and promoting indecision. Australia's Lemon Myrtle has a nice charge of citrus. The soothing White Monkey Paw from China's Wuyi Mountains conveys a calming warmth. Hot teas come in toasty pots fit for either one person or a pair of drinkers. Its signature mint iced tea, available in both sweet and unsweet versions, conveys brisk, zesty sips. And jars of loose-leaf tea are available from behind the checkout counter.

SOUPY SALE

Other steamy items, in the form of soup, warm guests. The near ivory-colored lobster bisque has a creamy thickness with little bits of lobster and red pepper flecked in the broth. The tomato bisque and its scattering of basil is of a much thinner consistency with lighter results.

HEALTHY HEAPS

Health-sensitive patrons can scan the menu looking for items best suiting personal diets. The California spring salad remains practically guiltless. A mix of organic greens tumble with avocado, portobello 'shrooms, almonds, onion and strawberries. The side of raspberry poppyseed dressing sweetens the deal, and a diminutive carrot muffin plays out as a sensible side.

The warm veggie sandwich may not be as big as the imagination, but a stuffing of minced mushrooms, slivers of avocado, lettuce, melted cheese and more liven up a pair of pita slices.

A peach-glazed chicken breast provides the centerpiece for Judy's Peach of a Chick croissant sandwich. And the tuna quesadilla goes upstream with a touch of cucumber dill mayonnaise.

COMFORT FOOD

Mittie's specializes in dishes delivering waves of contentment. Breakfast items come out of the kitchen all day. A cuddly bowl of oatmeal serves as a cushy bed for dried cranberries and strawberry slices.

Lunch soothers include an assortment of quiches boasting ingredients such as spinach, mushrooms and crab.

TEA TIME FOR TOTS

It may not look overly kid-friendly, but Mittie's welcomes young ones with copious kiddie platters. The staff prepares grilled cheese, and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on hefty slices of Texas toast.

Special birthday parties take place at Mittie's, inviting children to bring along their favorite stuffed animal for a festive tea soiree.

Kids and adults might enjoy closing out lunch with a punch of dessert. Skip the aesthetically pleasing yet ultimately dry carrot cake for a piece of chocolate cake that's fudgy and especially rich.

High tea is available any time and includes an assortment of popular dishes, including a chicken salad croissant, spinach quiche and more. A tiered plate of desserts and drinks is included, too.

And since Mittie's is just steps away from the stretch of shops in downtown Roswell, a stroll through a gallery or artsy storefront serves as an entertaining way to walk off a meal.

• Hours: 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m. daily.
• Reservations: Recommended for high tea or larger parties of seven or more.
• Recommended dishes: California spring salad, Judy's Peach of a Chick, veggie sandwich, lobster bisque.
• Prices: Breakfast entrees $5-$8.95; lunch entrees $6.95-$11.95; teas $3.95-$7.95.
• Web site: www.mitties.com
• Verdict: Tearoom femininity with healthy, hearty fare.