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To some, oysters — those slimy, meal-time mollusks — are the pearls of the sea. Connoisseurs laud them as a delicacy, while others cite their power as an aphrodisiac. With romance in the air for Valentine's Day, we dive head first into a few oyster-friendly spots to see what we catch.

– Jon Waterhouse

Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Oceannaire
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Ray's on the River
Frank Niemeir/Staff (ENLARGE)
Barnacles
Jean Shifrin/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Six Feet Under.
RELATED LINK: Two parties on the half shell
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GRANT PARK

Six Feet Under

Rows of vintage beer cans, a jamming jukebox, scores of metal beer signs and a killer deck overlooking Oakland Cemetery give Six Feet Under a beach town rustic charm without the beach. Guests swill brew and feast on a variety of fried, seared, broiled and steamed seafood. Apalachicola oysters show up on the half shell, but the slippery treats come in other forms, too. A plate of oysters baked in the half shell with parmesan cheese arrive on a narrow, rectangular plate. The toasty, crunchy cheese exterior encrusts the slippery treat. Tasty for sure, but watch out for bits of shell that might mingle with the edibles. Six Feet Under has a second location in West Midtown.

• 415 Memorial Drive S.E., Suite E, Atlanta. 404-523-6664, www.sixfeetunderatlanta.com | • Map & details.

VIRGINIA-HIGHLAND

Fontaine's Oyster House

Walking into Fontaine's, the first thing you come across is the small circular oyster bar to your right. It's there a rubber gloved employee plucks oysters from a bin, shucks them and serves them on ice-lined platters. The oysters come from the Gulf of Mexico, but for a higher price, diners have the option for the more premium bluepoint oysters from Connecticut. And Fontaine's puts other types of oysters in the spotlight, including the recent beau soleil oyster special. Look for several deals throughout the week including Gulf oysters raw or steamed for 50 cents each on Sundays and a half-dozen Gulf oysters on the half shell for $5 on Tuesdays. Plop them on a cracker, top them with horseradish or simply slurp them au naturel underneath the bundles of yellow globe lights that hang above the booze bar. Don't miss the words of wisdom the staff scrawls across the barroom chalkboard.

• 1026 1/2 N. Highland Ave., Atlanta. 404-872-0869, www.nnnwcorp.com/fontainesmain.html | • Map & details.

SANDY SPRINGS

Ray's on the River

The Oysters Rockefeller at snazzy Ray's is a hot choice for guests to eat while gazing out upon the Chattahoochee River. Cooks saute onions, leeks and bits of the apple-smoked bacon flown in from Wisconsin. Next, the spinach is tossed and wilted away while cream is reduced on the side. After sauteing, the cooks stir in the cream and two ounces of Pernod. The sauce is drizzled on top of freshly shucked oysters. A little bit of Monterrey Jack cheese goes on top, then they are baked in the oven until golden. When the dish comes out, it's crowned with hollandaise.

• 6700 Powers Ferry Road, Sandy Springs. 770-955-1187, www.raysrestaurants.com | • Map & details.

DORAVILLE

Barnacles

Like its sister locations, this Barnacles spot specializes in oysters and a variety of seafood fare. It all hits the table in a sports-heavy atmosphere featuring 188 TVs broadcasting various match-ups. No pretense here. In good-old-boy fashion, patrons seem content at chasing an oyster gulp with a swig of Bud. According to general manager Dan Brown, the oysters arrive weekly via Andalusia, Fla., and are served on the half shell, Rockefeller style, steamed and fried. On Mondays from 4 p.m.-midnight, oysters are 25 cents each. And from 4-6 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays, oysters, wings and shrimp go for 25 cents a pop.

• 6365 Peachtree Industrial Blvd., Doraville. 770-451-6778, www.barnacles.net | • Map & details.

MIDTOWN

The Oceanaire Seafood Room

The plush, stylish deco-flavored dining room combines an upscale, white tablecloth environment with casual allure like cans of Old Bay seasoning and bottles of Tabasco on each table. The swank oyster bar curves around a corner with a bank of ice resting just above the bar. With the exception of a few regular items, the menu changes daily. According to our waiter, the kitchen strives to serve most of its items no more than 48 hours out of the water. This includes a discerning line up of oysters from either the northwestern or northeastern waters of the U.S. and Canada or from boutique oyster farms. "Oysters take on their environments," says Adam Newton, executive chef and operating partner. "Oysters just one cove down could take on a whole different flavor." For example, a cluster of oysters from a patch of water that rushes over redwoods might bring a smokier flavor. Oceanaire's oyster selection could include the petite, sweet-and-salty Kumamoto to the super salty, dainty Malpeque. Each batch comes with massive lemon slices and three small containers of dipping sauces: red wine vinegar, slightly spicy horseradish cocktail and a soy dipping sauce with sesame oil, shallots, ginger and scallions.

• 1100 Peachtree St. N.W., Atlanta. 404-475-2277, www.theoceanaire.com | • Map & details.