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It may be in a strip mall in suburban Johns Creek. And its crisp, clean decorating sense with bright Italian advertising posters might not feel like the comfortably well-worn, checkered tablecloth scene of a storefront cove in Little Italy. But Pasta Vino succeeds at providing suitable Italian dishes that warm the tummies of a neighborhood crowd.

Bob Andres/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Pasta dishes are plentiful at Pasta Vino in John's Creek. The linguini frutti di mare tosses together mussels, shrimp, fish and calamari.
Bob Andres/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
The namesake pizza dish balances prosciutto, mushrooms and olives.
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A LITTLE BREAD, A LITTLE GREEN

Before having a chance to order an appetizer, a helping of squashy garlic rolls arrives with a guilty but pleasurable coating of butter gleaming throughout. Fortunately, a Sicilian salad built for two provides enough distraction. A generous yet sensible amount of feta covers a bed of Romaine with accents of tomato, kalamata olives, onion and pepperoncini. The rest of Pasta Vino's salad selection remains wide with spinach, grilled chicken and grilled salmon, to name a few.

GETTING EGGY WITH IT

The appetizer list doesn't have many huge surprises; calamari here, garlic knots there. But the addition of the rollatine di melanzane brings a smile. The staff stuffs two separate hunks of eggplant with a soothing spinach and ricotta filling. It's not terribly indulgent and offers a pleasant introduction to Pasta Vino at its best.

DISHING IT OUT

Entrees including veal picatta prove fine. Cutlets lounge in a puddle of white wine and lemon butter sauce. Tiny, pebble-like capers dot the meat and sauce. The meat's thin enough to effectively soak up the satisfying sauce so you're not tempted to lick the plate.

Wide roasted red peppers lay across the salmon Romano, as do artichoke hearts and kalamata olives. The lemon butter sauce helps divert the low to moderate fishiness found in the salmon. But overall, the dish is powerful enough for a repeat order next time around.

Pastas, of course, are in massive supply. Items like lasagna, ziti, spinach ravioli and shrimp scampi with linguini keep all the standards in check. The linguini frutti di mare finds mussels, shrimp, calamari and fish tumbling together in a mass of pasta.

Pizzas help stuff family members, especially on weekends. The restaurant skillfully balances the ingredients of its namesake pie. Just the right amount of prosciutto, mushrooms and olives share dough space. A total of eight other specialty pies, from the Hawaiian to a meat-heavy pizza, offer smart suggestions, but guests can build their own, too. Or take a break from pizza, but still remain in the family with a calzone or stromboli.

CAN'T SAY NO

Nothing says Italian meal closer like a solid cannoli. Pasta Vino's effort is admirable with its crunchy exterior and creamy inside blasting with chocolate chips. It's a sizable serving. But those who want a taste, but would rather not commit, can go for a less expensive, petite version.

• Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; noon-9:30 p.m. Sundays. Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.
• Reservations: Yes
• Recommended dishes: Stuffed eggplant appetizer, veal picatta, salmon Romano, cannoli
• Prices: Appetizers, soups and salads $2.95-$10.95; pasta dishes and entrees $8.75-$19.95; pizza $6.95-$19.95.
• Web site: www.pastavinojohnscreek.com
• Verdict: Tummy-warming Italian for a neighborhood crowd.