Ritter Jones just couldn't pass up a good spot. When the old Houck's restaurant off Paper Mill Road became available, he jumped at the chance to expand his culinary reach. Jones, who runs the successful Ritter's on Lower Roswell Road, has spent the past six months turning the spot into another family-friendly eatery called the Paper Mill Grill.

"I liked this space because it had such a history in the community," Jones said. "I moved here in 1995, and I clearly recall driving by and seeing the crowds on the deck. Once I came in and saw the layout, I had tingles on my spine."

Renee Brock (ENLARGE)
Renee Brock/Special (ENLARGE)
The Paper Mill Grill (above), home of the former Houck's restaurant, has a spiffy inside and a menu that features French onion steak (top).
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It was the deck and gazebo that again drew Jones in. The huge outdoor area is still getting the finishing touches in time for warmer weather, when there will be seats for about 80 guests. Inside, the dark, clubby look has been replaced by red oak hardwood floors, earth-tone walls and stacked-stone columns. Jones also drew some inspiration from the nearby Sope Creek mill ruins to add a waterfall and cedar beams behind the bar. A spacious club room has been outfitted with a fireplace, big leather chairs and TVs.

The old entertainment room, once home to bands and dancers, has been cut in half to create a private dining area that should be ready for business later this spring.

Though Jones has a track record with some of Ritter's dishes, he wanted a clean slate at the grill. But there will plenty of favorites coming out of the kitchen. "What restaurant doesn't have salmon, for instance," Jones said. "We're just adding a bit more styling."

Start off with hot smoked salmon, Asian chicken wings, lobster Cobb salad or crab cake or pork sliders. Move on to portobello ravioli, shrimp and saffron risotto, seared sea bass with clams, a bone-in rib-eye or a 12-ounce New York strip.

The house specialty is a creation Jones hit on when he had too many onions on hand: The French onion steak arrives in a deep pasta bowl, filled with fingerling potatoes, a five-ounce filet mignon topped with provolone cheese and a slice of French bread. After it's run under the broiler, it's surrounded with a French onion broth.

Jones' pastry chef wife, Brigid, takes credit for the sweets. She's turned out an array of two-ounce dessert tastes that arrive at the table in a tray with six selections, from carrot cake and Key lime pie to tiramisu and strawberry shortcake.

Pick just one for $2.50 or splurge and take the whole lot for $12. A lunch menu is in the works for April.

The grill's full bar is well stocked with the ingredients for the most in-demand cocktails. Try a Paper Milltini with Grey Goose, Frangelico, white cacao and cream.

Wines are tiered by four price points, from $6.50 to $14 per pour or from $26 to $65 per bottle. There are 14 selections by the glass and more than 60 vintages in the shelf — a number that Jones expects to expand rapidly.

Along with wine, there are 15 domestic and imported bottled beers.

PAPER MILL GRILL

• Where: 305 Village Parkway, Marietta, 678-766-1500

• Signature dish: French onion filet mignon

• Entree prices: $15.95-$28.95

• Hours: 4:30-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 4:30 p.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturday

• Reservations: Call ahead

• Credit cards: yes

• Web site: www.papermillgrill.com