Tommy's Midori attempts to be all things to all people in Loganville. The restaurant, located on the outskirts of Gwinnett County, is a quirky mix of Chinese, Japanese and American dishes that has its share of strengths with a few misses.

FAR OUT, FAR EAST

GAVIN AVERILL (ENLARGE)
GAVIN AVERILL (ENLARGE)
Tommy's Midori in Loganville (above) offers Chinese, American and Japanese dishes, including the Loganville roll (top), which is a best-seller.
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Owner Tommy Tang's sesame chicken is perhaps the tastiest incarnation of this dish that we've ever had. The fresh chicken is lightly breaded and deep fried with the perfect blend of spices. It's served with a sweet sauce that enhances the flavor of the chicken without overwhelming the dish, making it lighter than other sesame chicken recipes.

Tang previously owned a Chinese buffet in Loganville before opening this restaurant as a fine dining venture in 2003. He feels like his Southern diners deserve a touch of comfort food because the sesame chicken is accompanied by a twice-baked potato. It didn't seem to fit with the dish, and after one bite, we stuck with the steamed rice.

Starters include spring rolls, salads and an average hot and sour soup.

The restaurant's selection of sushi has nearly 40 offerings, including a nod to the city. The warm, tempura-encrusted Loganville roll is filled with pieces of salmon and grouper and topped with a thin sweet sauce. It's deserving of its spot as the restaurant's most popular sushi option – Tang says they get 30-40 orders daily for the roll. The California roll is on par with other sushi spots.

WEST MEATS EAST

The marquee proudly boasts that Tommy's Midori has steak, seafood and sushi. With the sushi satisfying, we tried the other two. The rib-eye steak was supposed to be 12 ounces, but looked bigger. However, the accompanying broccoli had more flavor than the meat, which was a little tough. The shrimp were soggy and tasted like they had been frozen.

WARM WELCOME – AND GOODBYE

The staff was affable and helpful during our entire meal, answering questions and playing with our 2-year-old son. Near the end of the meal, they brought him free dessert – small pieces of chocolate and strawberry cake. Another family with young kids and a group meeting in a section separated by a screen were among the diners the weekday night of our visit. Most tables have a view of the sushi bar, which can accommodate diners. Again, perhaps owing to its location, the décor has a homey feel, looking more like the setting of a meat-and-two eatery instead of an Asian restaurant.

TOMMY'S MIDORI

• Where: 150 U.S. 78, Suite 800, Loganville, 770-554-3089

• Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 pm. Mondays-Fridays and Sundays; dinner, 5-9:30 p.m. Sundays, 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

• Recommended dishes: Loganville roll, sesame chicken

• Price range: appetizers, $3.99-$7.99; soups, $1.99-$3.25; salads, $5.99-$7.99; entrees, $8.99-$10.99

• Web site: www.tommysmidori.com

• Verdict: Sushi and Chinese dishes shine.