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The recently opened Cypress Street Pint & Plate (located behind the Biltmore near Halo) is a do-over of Toast — the stylishly comfortable and affordable Midtown restaurant once helmed by chef Drew Van Leuvan. The concept this time is a contemporary take on the neighborhood bar — think Manuel's Tavern meets Tap — with an emphasis on beer and pub grub. And, as always, the patio, an urban oasis tucked away among the concrete, is a major draw.

CHANGING STYLES: Architect Thom Williams, who was a partner at Toast, is also a partner at Cypress Street. With his firm, ASD, Williams worked on the designs for several Atlanta restaurants, including Toast, Halo, Piebar and Lobby. In reinventing the Toast space, Williams says he wanted to create something with "an old feel, before it became old." To achieve that, he used a lot of wood — mostly oak and, fittingly, some cypress — which exudes tactile warmth. He also made the bar the focal point. A sprawling rectangle with one end open to the patio, it offers views across all angles and a pleasant sense of conviviality. The low ceiling over the bar makes it seem even more intimate, while beer tap handles hung from above add unexpected visual interest. Outside on the patio, there's a new fire pit, perfect for convening a tribe for cocktails on a cool evening.

Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
Cypress Street Pint & Plate, at the former Toast location, serves pub grub with some bigger plates.
Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
The meatball sliders at Cypress Street come as an appetizer but can make a light meal as well.
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BIG & SMALL PLATES: Six weeks after opening, the menu is still being tweaked a bit — look for brunch items soon. Right now, though, it reads like a compendium of all-American favorites: Buffalo wings, chili-covered nachos, corn dogs, grilled pizza, sandwiches and salads. Meatball sliders come three-to-an-order as an appetizer, but could as easily make a meal. Covered in spicy, tangy pomodoro sauce, the tender orbs are served on slightly sweet toasted rolls, with Romano cheese and arugula. Burgers are half-pound monsters on chewy ciabatta rolls, made with a variety of toppings. And unlike most places nowadays, you can get them cooked rare. On a recent visit, the calamari beckoned, mainly because it's fried with peppers and scallions, and served with jalapeño aioli and pomodoro. But, alas, the crunchy veggies and tasty sauces weren't enough to overcome a dreaded case of rubbery squid.

PINTS & COCKTAILS: Like the name says, pints are a big part of the scene at Cypress Street. Flying Dog pale ale is on draft (under the name Cypress Street Ale) for $3. There's also Terrapin Rye, Sweetwater 420 Rye and Chimay Triple, and more than 20 bottled beers. But so far, the beer list doesn't feature anything particularly unusual. The wine list is short and sweet, with just three "house" reds and three "house" whites, priced between $6-$10 by the glass and $28-$48 by the bottle. Signature cocktails include the Caipiroska, a blend of muddled limes, simple syrup and vodka, and Red Lemonade, made with muddled lemons, citron vodka and cranberry juice.

HOURS: Kitchen open 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays; late-night menu after 10 p.m.; bar open later Mondays-Saturdays

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PRICES: Appetizers, $4-$9; soups and salads, $3.50-$10.50; burgers, sandwiches and plates $4-$9.50

RESERVATIONS: For large parties

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Burgers, fries, meatball sliders

PARKING: Street and lot parking

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

SMOKING POLICY: Smoking on the patio

NOISE LEVEL: Moderate

TAKEOUT: Yes

VERDICT: Toast is retooled as a convivial neighborhood bar, with a great patio.