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Be it in an ale-stained barroom, a discerning eatery or a fast-food grease vault, the fried onion can be a hard-to-resist meal accessory. Spot on, they're like the ring of power in J.R.R. Tolkien's "The Lord of the Rings." While blissful at first bite, overindulgence can be detrimental. Sometimes you can almost feel those arteries hardening with each munch. But with moderation and an appreciation for the deep-fried arts, the onion ring is often a band of beauty.

Bita Honarvar/AJC (ENLARGE)
Rings with apple ketchup at JCT Kitchen.
JEAN SHIFRIN/AJC (ENLARGE)
Rings at the Earl in East Atlanta.
WILLIAM BERRY/AJC (ENLARGE)
Skip's rings are beer-battered heaven in Avondale.
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WESTSIDE

JCT Kitchen

Ironically enough, the managing partner and executive chef at JCT Kitchen is Ford Fry. When crafting his house onion rings at this Southern-centric bistro, he's a discriminating fry guy. Fry soaks the onions overnight in a salt water-based brine. This is the key, he says, because it seasons the onion all the way through. The next day, cooks lightly cover the onion slices in tempura batter and deep fry them as thin as possible. A stack of rings, each about 2 inches in diameter, arrive at the table with a side of Fry's own apple-tomato ketchup. For this, he uses his homemade apple butter, onions, brown sugar, sherry vinegar and a touch of regular ketchup for the tomato flavor.

• 1198 Howell Mill Road, Suite 18, Atlanta. 404-355-2252, www.jctkitchen.com • Map it and review it.

AVONDALE ESTATES

Skip's Hot Dogs

Head honcho Leo "Skip" Shababy brought his version of the Chicago hot dog genre to town in 1979. The first and last remaining Skip's still resides in its original Avondale Estates location where guests file in and chomp on Chicago-style dogs, Maxwell Street Polish sausages, Italian beef sandwiches and more. And its beer-battered onion rings are an in-demand side. Skip's uses premium frozen onion rings. But when they became a bit too costly, the restaurant had to either cut them from the menu or raise the price. The restaurant opted for the former. "For a while we quit having them," says general manager Jesus Velez. "People got mad, so we had to bring them back." The reason for the popularity, Velez says, is the precisely fried beer batter. It results in a crispier ring, he adds, which stays crispy throughout the meal. According to Velez, Skip's sells approximately six to eight cases (each holds six 7-pound bags) per week.

• 48 N. Avondale Road, Avondale Estates. 404-292-6703, www.skipshotdogs.com • Map it and review it.

EAST ATLANTA

The Earl

The Earl's front room restaurant and bar provides a gathering spot for hipsters and pre- and post-game activities for music fans heading to the back for a show. Bar food rules here and the onion ring remains in attendance. These thick-cut rings are frozen, but get a PBR battering in The Earl's kitchen. Staff cook Ben Christopher says the goal is to get the rings a little crispier and browner than the competition. While other restaurants' rings may be a little flimsy and light, Christopher says The Earl goes for the more substantial, darker side. "They're good, greasy and sloppy," Christopher says. "They're probably not great for you, but they're good going down."

• 488 Flat Shoals Ave. S.E., Atlanta. 404-522-3950, www.badearl.com • Map it and review it.

LITTLE FIVE POINTS

Zesto

OK, so it's not The Varsity where the onion rings are next to greasy Godliness. But with its ice cream, gloppy footlong hot dogs and killer tater tots, Zesto holds steady as a local institution. Of its handful of locations, the Little Five Points stop is a choice destination for weekend night owls looking for a quick fix. Zesto serves until 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, and some coat the stomach with a sack of onion rings. Step up to the counter for an order. While the staff prepares the food, chances are you'll have to wait on a stool at the nearby wall counter. The rings come in two ample sizes — call it large and larger — and roll out of the kitchen in a red and white-striped paper bag bearing an image of Zesto's pudgy-cheeked mascot Chubby Decker. The crunchy, golden exterior often holds onions that are thick and juicy.

• 377 Moreland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-523-1973, and other locations, www.zestoatlanta.com • Map it and review it.

DOWNTOWN

Ted's Montana Grill

The Western-themed homebred chain known for its bison and blue plates throws its own brand of onion rings into the mix. Diners score a pile of 10 rings as an appetizer or five as a side dish. The rings feature freckles of salt and pepper throughout their crispy exterior. A side of horseradish sauce provides dipping fodder. These bode well with one of Ted's signature burgers like the bleu cheese-tinged Blue Creek or the Montana with ham, cheddar, onions and a slathering of barbecue sauce. Or simply splurge all decadent with rings and a shake or malt made with a healthy helping of Häagen-Dazs.

• 133 Luckie St., Atlanta. 404- 521-9796, and other locations, www.tedsmontanagrill.com • Map it and review it.