CANTINA EL TESORO in Decatur is the more ambitious, grown-up cousin to Cantina la Casita in East Atlanta. The menu shares some of the best things from Casita, including hand-rolled tamales and the surprisingly winning shallow-fried chimichanga. But in contrast to Casita, which has gotten a little rough around the edges lately, Tesoro shines with an atmosphere that's decidedly more inviting, and a treasure trove of classic and modern tacos and specialties.

CHURCH STREET HACIENDA: Located on Church Street in an old home with a pastoral yard and an expansive porch, Tesoro has the pleasantly disconnected feel of a Southern frat house morphed into a Mexican hacienda. A giant neon sign in capital letters announces the entrance. Inside, a sprawling series of rooms of various shapes and sizes are decorated with Latin American folklorica. And dramatic flourishes of drapes and lighting highlight quirky nooks and niches. The comfortable bar is home to some 100 tequilas and a better-than-average beer list.

Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
In a series of rooms of various shapes and sizes, Cantina el Tesoro (above) serves 'street' tacos along with carnitas (top) and other Mexican treats. Bar selections include beer and 100 tequilas.
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TACO MAXED: The menu is as eclectic as the setting, but at the heart of it is a collection of "street" tacos with ingredients ranging from char-grilled brisket to chipotle-marinated tofu. Particularly good is the succulent citrus-braised duck with grilled mushrooms, and the mushroom medley sauteed with squash, zucchini and corn huitlacoche (a black fungus that's sort of the poor man's truffle). You can sample four tacos on the "platillo grande" plate ($9.95), which comes with a half-dozen freshly made salsas, plus chopped onion, cilantro, limes, radishes and queso fresco. Of the salsas, the chipotle is thick and deeply smoky, while the toasty guajillo is rich with garlic and cumin, and the habenero is a nice combo of tart tomatillo and rush-to-the-head heat.

MEXICAN SPECIALTIES: Beyond tacos, Tesoro has a good number of small bites and bigger plates. Starters include sweet and spicy "street corn," grilled with butter and chile powder, and bright seafood ceviche, marinated in lime, with tomatoes, onion and chiles, and served with tostadas. Carnitas "soto" is savory-tangy citrus-braised pork, seared with white onions, and kicked up with habenero salsa. A similar dish mixes braised duck and seared mushrooms with guajillo salsa.

MARGARITAS AND BEER: Fans of Rafael Barragan during his long reign as bartender at Sala will be happy to see him mixing cocktails at Tesoro. During a recent visit, Barragan (who was born in Veracruz, Mexico) whipped up a lovely, straight-up take on the house el Tesoro margarita, then helped navigate the menu, pointing out several highlights, including the pork tamale in chile guajillo sauce, and the ginger-lime margarita, with house-made ginger syrup. At the beer taps, look for Terrapin Rye, Dale's Pale Ale and Magic Hat No. 9.

Cantina el Tesoro, 129 Church St., Decatur, 404-377-9797, eltesorodecatur.com

HOURS: 11 a.m- 11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; noon-11 p.m. Sundays (bar open later — late-night menu coming soon)

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PRICES: Starters, tacos and small plates, $1.95-$7.75; specialties and main plates, $5.25-$14.25; sweets, $1.95-$4.45

RESERVATIONS: Yes.

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Tamales, tacos, carnitas "soto," salsas

PARKING: Street parking and lot

TAKEOUT: Yes

VERDICT: An even better take on Mexican food and drink from the originators of Cantina la Casita.