NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Loca Luna
550-C Amsterdam Ave., 404-875-4494


For AccessAtlanta
Published on: 04/21/2008

WILD-MAN RESTAURATEUR Paul Luna is long gone from the Atlanta dining scene. But his legacy lives on in the lively tapas restaurants he founded — including Loca Luna, which recently moved from its longtime 6th Street location to Amsterdam Avenue. And while the new digs have a little less of an urban underground vibe, the Latin party scene continues, with a big bar business, and music seven nights a week.

MIAMI IN MIDTOWN: Loca Luna now lives at the back of the Amsterdam Walk shopping center, in a humongous space once occupied by the Red Chair. Beyond the cavernous main dining room, the expanse is divided between a lounge area with a sprawling bar; plentiful outdoor seating, with Midtown skyline views; a live music venue, with a stage and dance floor; and an upstairs VIP room. If the steel and concrete structure is suburban Atlanta, the build-out is South Beach on a budget — awash with tropical colors, water features, palm trees, and sound and video spectacles. On a recent early Saturday evening, a bachelorette party descended on a long table, while a few young couples danced. But the majority of diners chose to take in cocktails and nibbles on the Visqueen-enclosed patio. Look for that to open up and become more crowded as warmer weather arrives.

Becky Stein/special
The new Loca Luna features outdoor seating with Midtown skyline views and a live music venue with a dance floor. The colorful tapas menu includes ceviche dishes such as yellowfin tuna with coriander and ginger, jalapeno, tangerine, avocado and cilantro (above).
 
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TAPAS TASTES: Chef Chad Anderson's latest small-plate menu runs from lamb albondigas (meatballs) in a coriander- and cumin-laced tomato sauce to lobster bisque shots and butternut squash empanadas. Golden beet lollipops, topped with a smear of goat cheese and a sprinkle of micro greens, are served up on wooden skewers. One of the best executed dishes combines a chargrilled hunk of flatiron steak, slivered hearts of palm, arugula, and clementine orange slices, with a bright splash of white balsamic vinegar and lemon. It pairs well with crispy fried yucca chips and blue cheese dip flavored with chives and smoked pimento. Other choices include hamachi ceviche, with pineapple, piquillo and jalapeno peppers and jicama, and old standbys, such as hefty pork ribs in a balsamic reduction, fried calamari with pico de gallo, and a Spanish cheese plate. For a bigger bite, paella comes in a traditional Spanish style, with seafood and sausage, or a seasonal vegetable version. All-in-all, it's pretty good food for the good-time crowds — though, sometimes, eating seems beside the point.

MOJITOS AND MARGARITAS: The wine list features a variety of Spanish, South American, French and American offerings, ranging from $6-$8 a glass and $22-$60 a bottle. But mojitos and margaritas are the thing here. And it's nice to see a natural margarita, blended with fresh lime juice, agave nectar, and reposado tequila, on the menu.

Loca Luna, 550-C Amsterdam Ave., 404-875-4494, www.loca-luna.com

HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m Sundays; 5-10 p.m Mondays-Tuesdays; 5-11 p.m. Wednesdays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Fridays; 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m Saturdays (bar open later)

CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard, American Express

PRICES: Salads and ceviche, $5-$7; tapas and tacos, $3-$10; paella, $17-$23

RESERVATIONS: Yes

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Golden beet lollipops; flatiron steaks; yucca chips with blue cheese dip

PARKING: Valet and lot

TAKEOUT: Yes

VERDICT: The Loca Latin party moves to Amsterdam Avenue, with more music, cocktails and tapas.

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