NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Pleasing pasta possibilities

Published on: 05/01/2008

There are hundreds of shapes and sizes of pasta and even more sauces to go with them, from simple tomato to dishes heaped with meat and seafood. Comforting and often bargain-priced, pasta can also be adventurous and fun. Fresh pasta places are everywhere in Atlanta these days. Here are five to try.

Becky Stein/special
Penne salsiccia at Baraonda features sausage, mushrooms and a creamy sauce.
 
Becky Stein/SPECIAL
Ravioli in a brown butter and sage sauce please at Pasta de Pulcinella in Midtown.
 
WILLIAM BERRY
Sotto Sotto stuffs these ravioli with veal, chicken and pork.
 
Becky Stein/SPECIAL
Diners at Figo's Pasta can mix and match pastas and sauces to create meals like whole wheat penne and chicken with bell peppers in a spicy tomato sauce.
 
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– Bob Townsend

INMAN PARK

Sotto Sotto

Offering some of the most authentic Italian cooking in Atlanta, Sotto Sotto does fresh pasta that combines tradition with creativity. All dishes can be ordered in a "first course" size, which makes it easier to get several to share. The free-form lasagnette baked with bolognese and béchamel, and the pappardelle with braised duck ragu are two of the richest treasures. The sublime tortelli di Michelangelo combines veal, chicken and pork ravioli in a butter and sage sauce. Enjoy them with classic Italian wines, in an atmosphere that's sophisticated but casually convivial.

• THE 411: 313 N. Highland Ave. 404-523-6678. www.sottosottorestaurant.com

MIDTOWN

Pasta da Pulcinella

Housed in a quaint renovated bungalow on Peachtree Walk in Midtown, this Atlanta original continues to serve beloved house pasta specialties at lunch and dinner, including sweet and savory round ravioli filled with Granny Smith apples, sausage and Parmesan cheese in a brown butter and sage sauce; and buckwheat noodles topped with lightly sautéed rapini, radicchio and shiitake mushrooms flavored with browned garlic and red pepper. Field greens and Caesar salad make simple starters.

• THE 411: 1123 Peachtree Walk N.E. 404-876-1114. pastadapulcinella.com

DECATUR

Figo Pasta

If you've been to one of the other popular Figo locations, the menu here will be instantly recognizable. If you haven't, the only thing you really need to know is that you line up to order at the counter, where you can combine nearly 20 different kinds of fresh pastas and nearly a dozen different sauces, all separately priced. Try the spicy, pancetta-flavored Amatriciana sauce over barely al dente penne, or the Siciliana, with eggplant, mozzarella and basil and shredded ricotta cheese. There are also daily specials. And the small beer and wine list is bargain priced.

• THE 411: 627 E. College Ave. 404-377-2121. And other locations. www.figopasta.com

GRANT PARK

Stella Neighborhood Trattoria

From the owners of Osteria 832 in Virginia-Highland, this bright, new, bang-for-the-buck Italian place distinguishes itself with a menu that features local and organic ingredients. Among the best of the pasta dishes, the baci is little ravioli-like "purses" stuffed with four cheeses and covered in a silky tomato sauce spiked with vodka and cream. Other choices include spaghetti and pomodoro sauce with beef and pork meatballs, papardelle with pork ragu, and fettucine with chicken and sun-dried tomatoes in cream sauce.

• THE 411: 563 Memorial Drive. 404-688-4238. www.stellaatlanta.com

MIDTOWN

Baraonda Cafe Italiano

In business since 2000, Baraonda has been a perennially popular pre-Fox Theatre destination, serving up sandwiches, salads and seriously good thin-crust pizza in a lively cafe atmosphere that extends to the sidewalk. But the pasta here merits some attention, too. Look for simple penne checca with roma tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic, basil and olive oil, or rich penne salsiccia, with sweet and hot sausage and mushrooms smoothed out with a bit of cream. And then there's the ravioli of the day and the decadent egg fettuccine with veal osso buco sauce.

• THE 411: 710 Peachtree St. N.E. 404-879-9962. www.baraondaatlanta.com

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