NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Slate Grill
1000 Whitlock Ave., Marietta, 770-426-9777


For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 05/01/2008

Diners on Marietta's west side may remember the space as the Grazie: A Bistro. But Rodney Foster has worked for two years on a concept that will soon banish any memories of that Italian eatery.

Foster's recently opened Slate Grill is a thoroughly revamped space with cool, modern colors.

Renee Brock/special
Roasted garlic potato cakes, sweet potato fries and fried okra are among some of the more traditional Southern offerings on Slate Grill's menu.
 
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"This space was very Italian, with big curved walls and Tuscan colors," Foster said. Now the walls are a warm gray; the floor is black slate. Dividing walls between seating areas and the bar, as well as the wall around the glassed-in wine cabinet, are stacked slate. A glass panel gives diners a view of the working kitchen. Black-framed photos of classic Marietta scenes line the walls.

The kitchen is as contemporary as the surroundings. Chef Mauricio Diaz, hired away from the Tavern at Phipps, is working on a weekly menu of rotating dishes that will keep diners coming back to see what he's cooking.

Cool contemporary

The menu's American, but there are splashes of Asian influences. A thick square of sea bass sits atop a pile of sautéed spinach and wild rice in a miso and soy broth. The shrimp is fried in a panko crust and served with an Asian slaw. A seafood cocktail served in a martini glass is layered with ahi tuna, shrimp and avocado in an avocado aioli. Shrimp tempura has a ginger dipping sauce; fried calamari, a Thai aioli.

But there are plenty of traditional dishes as well. Crispy catfish comes with garlic mashed potatoes and collard greens. Pork chops are maple glazed; chicken is herb rubbed. Filets and rib eyes can be paired with fried okra, sweet potato fries, grilled asparagus or spinach.

Along with entrees, the menu has a section of tapas. There are plates of three mini burgers; seared sea scallops in a citrus butter bath; crab cakes drizzled with a jalapeño aioli and a corn and black bean relish. There are also nibbles of shrimp tempura; celery stalks with pimento cheese; crostini topped with goat cheese and olive tapanade; or a wild mushroom hummus with pita wedges.

Big salads

There are six salads big enough to be main dishes, topped with steak, fruit, goat cheese and dressings like raspberry or peanut-ginger vinaigrette.

The menu is the same all day, so you can opt for a half-pound burger, Cajun steak sandwich or shrimp po' boy for dinner if you want. The sandwich lineup also features Foster's own creation: Hot Rod's BBQ chicken with a zesty slaw topping.

Weekend brunch brings eggs, made-to-order omelets, sausage biscuits with gravy, French toast and granola.

Desserts vary as well, so one might find a strawberry shortcake or chocolate chip cookies with cream at the end of the menu.

From the bar

There are 25 wines and one champagne by the glass, starting at $5. The bottle selection has more than 30 options, largely from California and Australia. There are four craft beers and another 15 by the bottle. A specialty cocktail menu features martinis made with fresh juices, margaritas and a Georgia Peach with vodka, crème de peche and peach puree.



Signature dish: Scallops in citrus butter; panko-crusted shrimp
Entree prices: $14-24
Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner: 5-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday; brunch: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Reservations: No
Credit cards: Yes

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