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NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Marlow's Tavern
745 Chastain Road, Kennesaw, 770-425-8777


For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 05/15/2008

With the Barrett Parkway area already crowded with chain restaurants, it appears that Chastain Road, just a few miles to the north, is the new hot location. It's proven particularly popular with independent, locally owned operations that are drawing from the residential base as well as the student crowd from nearby Kennesaw State.

Renee Brock/AJC special
Grilled Atlantic salmon with sauteed green beans, roasted potato and crispy onion strings.
 
Renee Brock/AJC special
Pomegranate martini
 
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The latest to join the scene along Chastain is Marlow's Tavern, a home-grown neighborhood pub from the folks who created Aqua Blue in Roswell and Hi Life Kitchen & Cocktails in Norcross. This Marlow's is the fourth of the casual food and brew spots, joining other Marlow's already running in Midtown, Alpharetta and Vinings.

Partner Hank Clark said his company has been eyeing the Chastain Road corridor for quite some time and that the area provided a good fit for the Marlow's concept.

"We're trying to create a neighborhood gathering spot, " said Clark. "We've taken the classic tavern menu and elevated it a bit to bring in some of the things we've done over the years at our other restaurants."

Marlow's isn't massive, with room for just about 120, but when it fills up on a Friday night, it's a high-energy spot. The tables turn quickly, but there's plenty of room to linger at the bar or on the enclosed patio, where heaters make it a comfortable spot even on a chilly evening.

A cut above pub food

So instead of just serving nachos, Marlow's tweaks the dish and turns out shrimp and crab nachos, blended with cheese and jalapenos and served atop a fried tortilla. The dish is sliced into bite-size chunks so there's no dripping and dipping. "It's our No. 1 appetizer, " said Clark. "It's a great alternative to a big pile of chips and cheese."

Other starters include fried calamari; firecracker shrimp in a tempura batter with a sweet chili sauce; crawfish fondue; and wings, hummus and fries cooked in truffle oil and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese.

The best-selling salad is the black and blue steak that comes with slices of flatiron steak atop slices of tomato, red onions and scallions with a creamy Gorgonzola dressing. Sandwiches cover the most popular, from a chicken melt and cheeseburger to fish tacos, chicken wraps and a wrap of lamb, feta and red wine dressing.

For those looking for filling main dishes, go for the pork "porterhouse" —- a bone-in chop served atop sweet potato mash or the grilled salmon with onion strings and green beans. Grouper, skirt steak, chicken pasta and a platter of beef tenderloin with three fried eggs round out the options. Add a side of sauteed asparagus, jalapeno corn grits or fried okra. The same menu is served all day, through lunch and dinner.

From the bar

Marlow's big bar extends the length of the dining room. The focus is on seasonal drinks that feature the best available flavors. Right now, the attention is on warm and spicy winter quaffs, such as the apple cider martini or the martini mixed with chai tea, nutmeg and pumpkin spices. In warmer months, the lineup may feature fruit-based drinks such as the Tropical Elixir, with a frozen kiwi ice cube. Other favorite classic drinks are also available, along with four beers on draft and another 60 by the bottle. The wine selection from around the world features 40 vintages, all available by the glass.

Stay late

The sidewalks don't roll up early at Marlow's. The music on the patio doesn't start until 10 p.m. on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. In warmer weather, a garage door next to the bar rolls up to give the dining room better access to the beat. The vibe continues until midnight Sunday through Wednesday and until 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday.



Signature dishes: grilled Atlantic salmon; shrimp and crab nachos
Entree prices: $7.95-$16.95
Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays
Reservations: no
Credit cards: yes
Web site: www.marlowstavern.com

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