Pomodoro in Morningside is a quirky place. Reports had it pegged as the kind of old school Italian-American place common in New York and New Jersey but not so much in Atlanta. But a recent weekend visit proved more puzzling than satisfying. The huge menu promises all the red sauce classics — spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmigiana, lasagna, pizza — and sandwiches and slices at lunch. But the execution often swerves from classic Italian cooking in strange ways.

Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Pomodoro is dressed up like a small family restaurant, with a tiny bar and a semi-open kitchen, and Service is friendly and earnest.
Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
A bowl of penne with sausage is served with shaved Parmesan and some unexpected broccoli florets.
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NARROW STRETCH: Located near Alon's on North Highland Avenue in a narrow stretch that was long ago home to Mambo, the space feels like it was meant to be a big city diner. But it's dressed up like a small family restaurant, with a tiny bar and a semi-open kitchen. Service is friendly and earnest, if a tad erratic at times.

TWISTED ITALIAN: At dinner, a basket of warm, oddly crumbly focaccia, cut into corn bread-like squares, arrives with a bowl of thick pomodoro sauce for dipping. At a time when artisan cheese and charcuterie have become much more common, the antipasti is sort of a pre-sliced throwback. It comes plated with field greens and layered with marinated artichokes, roasted peppers, provolone and salami. Unexpectedly, there's also some steamed broccoli florets and asparagus spears. A bowl of penne pasta, with hunks of Italian sausage and a bland butter sauce, also gets some broccoli thrown in as an unadvertised surprise. The pizza, made with a sweetish dough that recalls naan or grilled pita bread, is another twisted Italian take. But it's not altogether unpleasant, especially piled with a gooey combo of Gorgonzola, mozzarella, feta and Parmesan cheeses. Other topping possibilities include everything from ground beef, ham, jalapeños and pineapple to mussels, shrimp and calamari.

SIDEWALK SCENE: Pomodoro has a full bar and a decent selection of reasonably priced wines. Probably the best way to enjoy the scene here is to grab a table out on the patio and join the neighborhood regulars in sipping drinks and munching on salad and pizza.

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Mondays-Sundays; dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Sundays.
Credit cards: All major.
Prices: Appetizers, soups and salads, $3.95-$9.95; pasta and entrees, $8.95-$15.95; pizza, $4.95-$15.95.
Reservations: Yes.
Recommended dishes: Pizza; antipasti; salads.
Parking: Street and lot.
Wheelchair access: Yes.
Smoking policy: Smoking on the patio.
Noise level: Moderate.
Web site: www.pomodoroitalianrestaurant.com
Takeout: Yes.
Verdict: A nice enough neighborhood red sauce joint, but the food can be confounding.