The grand Nan plan
By JOHN KESSLER
The Atlanta
Journal-Constitution
ATLANTA LOVES VAST, glossy restaurants with 25-foot-high ceilings and acres of plate glass twinkling to the traffic outside. But even in this context, Nan Thai Fine Dining stands out. The palatial, glamorous space is also harmonious, true to Thai design and filled with plenty of idiosyncratic elements and special service touches. Here are a few things to look for:
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OWNERS CHARLIE AND NAN NIYOMKUL personally escorted this machine back from Thailand, where it was manufactured. It extracts the milk from the flesh of fresh coconuts, so the kitchen need not rely on any canned product for its delicious curries. |
 JEAN SHIFRIN / Staff |
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IT'S A TAMARIND POD, OK? A huge metal tamarind pod guards the entrance to the restaurant and faces Spring Street. What's that? You want to play "You Supply the Caption"? Not on your life, bubba. |
 JEAN SHIFRIN / Staff |
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WHEN THE STAFFERS press their palms together, they aren't invoking a deity but rather welcoming you with the wai, a gesture of hospitality. Not a single serving will cross your path without a wai. |
 JEAN SHIFRIN / Staff |
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JOHNSON STUDIO -- the architecture and design firm responsible for Nan's interior -- can usually be counted on to get people talking about the restrooms in their projects. At Nan, the polished river stones in the sinks, crimson walls and piles of terrycloth towels topped with fresh orchids make a harmonious statement. |
 JEAN SHIFRIN / Staff |
