accessAtlanta

MARCELLA HAZAN, doyenne of Italian cooking, once said, "An Italian meal is a story told from nature, taking its rhythms, its humors, its bounty and turning them into episodes for the senses."

She must have wanted Atlantans to experience this for themselves, because she collaborated with the Turntable Group from Dallas to open an Italian restaurant here. It would be a grand room, with lots of Italian flourishes, and the menu would encompass all of Italy.

Jenni Girtman/AJC (ENLARGE)
The signature maialino, suckling pig with savoy cabbage, and (below) panna cotta, a custard with strawberries, mint and vinegar, grace the menu.
Jenni Girtman/AJC (ENLARGE)
Jenni Girtman/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
You'll think you're in the Riviera. Maybe that's the point with authentic dishes like risotto with spit-roasted rabbit and porcini mushrooms.
EMAIL THIS PRINT THIS MOST POPULAR

It would be called, somewhat unfortunately, Veni Vidi Vici.

That was 1989. By 1991, Hazan had left the venture. The restaurant survived, but barely. Eventually, Pano Karatassos of Buckhead Life Restaurant Group bought it, reopening it in March 1993 under the same name, but with a full spit rotisserie and a menu heavy with "piatti piccoli," or little plates — a sort of Italian version of tapas, including antipasti.

Veni soon became the place to power lunch and spot celebrities, from actors to then-Sen. Sam Nunn.

But suddenly, Veni became so '90s. Other restaurants with fresher, younger venues began to dot Atlanta's landscape. Like so many of the old intown favorites (Nikolai's Roof, the Sun Dial), Veni dropped off the well-versed Atlantan's A-list.

Enter (stage left) a new restaurant critic jonesing for a really good plate of ravioli. Some saltimboca wouldn't be bad, either. And both are hard to find in this town.

Oh, but I found them, happily, at Veni Vidi Vici. I found that the power lunch is still alive there, too. I found that stellar service from someplace other than the Ritz is something that actually exists in the ATL, if you dine here. I found, in short, an old friend. Or perhaps a brand new one.

I found maialino, the restaurant's signature dish of suckling pig, easy to spot on the turning spit. Succulent shreds of savory pork show up in a pleasing, unapologetic mound on the plate with cavolo verza (savoy cabbage) boasting the sweet-tart, vinegary flavors it often has in Italy's Veneto region. Pork is an ageless treat in Italy, boasting many forms. Chef Jaime Adams' version of this barbecue does both pig and country proud.

Adams spent five years working in Italy, and it shows. His mastery of simple dishes such as grilled polipo (octopus) over arugula with thinly sliced, marinated red onions proves it. Nevermind that the octopus is tender, not chewy; that the onions are sweet, not bitter. The arugula is the feathery, long-stemmed kind that conjures Italian flavors for me. No micro greens here, and there's nothing "baby" on the menu.

Just real, honest food. Not Italian-American food, either — that beloved, red-sauce-and-mozzarella-stringing, fork-to-mouth stuff we all love. Not even frou-frou faux Italian like sundried tomatoes packed in herbed olive oil or portobello mushrooms (neither of which is Italian at all).

No, Adams' menu is rife with food Italians actually eat: semi-spicy braised veal meatballs with a near velvety texture; tender risotto with spit-roasted rabbit and meaty porcini mushrooms; wide pappardelle with duck in a sauce that smacks of rich, tomato-y Bolognese; wilted spinach laden with garlic and olive oil.

When he stays within this straightforward realm, Adams succeeds on every level — flavor, execution, presentation. His food is as simple and honest as it should be.

But when he strays, as with a trout in broth with eggplant and greens, or a totally false-tasting peperonata (a pepper-laden ratatouille) with spicy salsiccia (sausage), or the mere drizzle of balsamic vinegar in olive oil placed on the table for bread, he misses the mark entirely. His aim becomes affected, and I don't want to believe him anymore.

How wonderful, then, that it doesn't happen often. Most of the time, munching on peppery grissini or foccacia (from sister venue Buckhead Bread Company), taking in the large, comfortable room or perhaps sipping espresso while indulging in the smooth-as-silk panna cotta or four-cheese cheese cake is molto bene.

These are the words emblazed over the open spit: tutto e delizioso. And for the most part, everything is delicious at Veni Vidi Vici.

VENI VIDI VICI
41 14th St., Atlanta, 404-875-8424

Overall rating:

Food: Tutto Italiano. Va bene.

Service: Squisito! The staff possesses in-depth knowledge of everything from menu items to the extensive wine list.

Setting: A large, open room flanked on one side by an open spit rotisserie. Large Parma prosciutti hang from a ceiling fixture, and large rounds of cheese and trays of fruits grace a welcoming table near the entrance.

Address, telephone: 41 14th St., Atlanta, 404-875-8424

Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and for dinner Monday-Thursday from 5 to 11 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5 p.m. to midnight and Sunday 5 to 10 p.m.

Price range: Piatti piccolo (small plates) are $7, including salads. Meat and cheese platters are $12. Rotisserie specialties are $19 each; meat entrees are $24 and fish entrees are $22. Pasta and risotto plates are $10 (for a half-portion) and $16 (for a full portion). Desserts are $6.50. Antipasti dinners that include a selection of meats and cheese plus a shared entree of pasta or risotto are $20 and $26 per person.

Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club, Discover

Best dishes: Grilled octopus, maialino (roast suckling pig), pappardelle with duck and wild mushrooms, risotto with roast rabbit, panna cotta

Full bar or wine/beer: Full bar

Reservations: Accepted

Vegetarian selections: Funghi salad, fettucine alfredo, spaghettini with marinara, spinach-and-ricotta tortelli

Children: Treated like the little kings and queens they are

Parking: Complimentary valet

Wheelchair access: Yes; entrance on second level parking garage only (also used in inclement weather)

Smoking: Bar only

Noise level: Medium

Patio: Yes

Takeout: Yes

KEY TO RATINGS

Outstanding. Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent. One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good. Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good. A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Fair or Poor.