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LISTED BELOW ARE THE RESTAURANTS, cafeterias, rib shacks and catering trucks visited for this roundup. The ones serving the best barbecue hog the top of the list. For the sake of comparison, both the ribs and the chopped pork are rated on a scale of 1 to 5 stars on a bell curve, with 5 being the highest.

A number of well-known local barbecue joints -- Fat Matt's, Harold's, Spiced Right -- are not on this list. Their merits have been well-documented, written about and discussed. And, well, there's only so much pig a body can ingest.

-- John Kessler

WALLACE BARBECUE

Open since: 1966

The setting: A huge, bustling trough decorated with antique gas pumps and car grilles.

The ribs: Jagged, nearly candied meat still clinging to the bones.

The pork: Smoky, well-defatted and pulled, and married beautifully to the house sauce.

The sauce: Both a bowl of warmed, thin, vinegary sauce mellowed with cooking juices and a bottle of spicy mustard sauce are offered. You want both.

Don't miss: The french fries and onion rings.

Something extra: You can have your barbecue heaped into a baked potato if you're not feeling like a total oinker.

THE 411: 3035 Veterans Memorial Highway, Austell. 770-739-1686. 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

HOMETOWN BAR-B-QUE

Open since: 1999

The setting: A catering truck in a parking lot that seems a grim place for tailgating. Pick up your 'cue and skedaddle.

The ribs: Pink with smoke, gorgeously rendered of fat, tingly with spice. None better around Atlanta.

The pork: Lean, carefully pulled, with a pretty smoke aroma.

The sauce: Thick, leaning toward sweet, nicely balanced.

Don't miss: Even the chicken is great.

Something extra: Buy an extra rack of ribs. Trust me.

THE 411: Parking lot of the Prescription Shop, corner of Gwinnett Drive and Scenic Highway in Lawrenceville. 770-822-0712. 5-8 p.m. Fridays, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturdays.

DEAN'S BARBEQUE

Open since: 1947

The setting: A counter attached by a charming, rickety passageway to an enclosed "picnic pavilion."

The ribs: Nada.

The pork: Big chunks of tender, smoky, lean meat.

The sauce: An ideal pitch of sweetness, spice and vinegar.

Don't miss: It's just chopped pork and thick Brunswick stew here. You know what you're here for.

Something extra: Church supper peanut butter and strawberry layer cakes for dessert.

THE 411: 9480 S. Main St., Jonesboro. 770-471-0138. 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesdays, 10:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays.

ASHBY STREET RIB SHACK

Open since: 1983

The setting: An open-air rib shack where Arthur Coleman Jr. attends to ribs and chicken pieces cooking on grates over Kingsford charcoal briquettes. Coleman slow-cooks the meats and bastes them in a balanced, sweet-vinegary sauce before enclosing them between two pieces of white bread and wrapping them in foil.

The ribs: Short-, center- and long-end portions are available for a few cents more or less here or there.

The pork: It wasn't ready yet on the afternoon I visited.

Don't miss: Chicken is just fine, but you're there for the ribs, pure and simple.

Something extra: A selection of '70s R&B CDs and bootylicious DVD porn for sale on a table in front of the rib shack.

THE 411: 22 Ashby St. N.W., Atlanta. 404-659-4747. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays.

PIG-N-CHIK (ORIGINAL LOCATION)

Open since: 2002

The setting: A corner storefront in a strip mall decorated like a sports bar.

The ribs: No longer as dry as they once were. Nice smoke flavor, soft meat that clings to the bone but too much fat.

The pork: Smoky and lean, a generous serving with plenty of surface meat.

The sauce: Meats are now served unsauced, with both a thick, sweet sauce and thin vinegar sauce on the table. Both are good and nicely balanced but not terribly spicy.

Don't miss: The Brunswick stew has a great kick. Salmon from the smoker and fresh broccoli lighten the bill of fare.

Something extra: Make sure to ask for your bread toasted.

THE 411: 4920 Roswell Road (in the Fountain Oaks Shopping Center). 404-255-6368. 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 10:30 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays, noon-11 p.m. Sundays.

THE SWALLOW AT THE HOLLOW

Open since: 1999

The setting: A knotty pine barn filled with life and live music.

The ribs: Tender and clingy meat, with a mild smoke flavor and a bit too much fat.

The pork: Respectable, but can be dry and listless.

The sauce: Three house-made sauces. Some have an off-putting alcoholic edge to them.

Don't miss: It's the sides, the fresh bread and the salads that make a meal here.

Something extra: The pit-cooked portobello sandwich with fried green tomatoes and smoked gouda is a true object of veg-head desire.

THE 411: 1072 Green St., Roswell. 678-352-1975. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Sundays.

ROLLING BONES PREMIUM PIT BBQ

Open since: 2003

The setting: A rehabbed 1940s service station now gleaming with fresh paint, chrome and a retro-hip logo like that of a midcentury Frigidaire.

The ribs: Chewy, nicely cut spareribs served with a dry sprinkling of lip-tingling seasoning.

The pork: Mushy-soft, without much smoke flavor.

The sauce: Homemade sauces in hot and mild. Both are unsubtle in their use of sweetness and vinegar.

Don't miss: The barbecued chicken and sliced beef brisket are both noteworthy.

Something extra: A drive-through lane that tempts on commutes home.

THE 411: 377 Edgewood Ave., Atlanta. 404-222-2324. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 12:30-8 p.m. Sundays.

FAMOUS DAVE'S

Open since: 2003, Marietta location

The setting: A corporate big box with obnoxious graphics. There are several local branches of this Minnesota chain.

The ribs: Pink-with-smoke baby backs that are quite tasty.

The pork: Nice smoky flavor but a little greasy.

The sauce: A whole range, but mostly of the sweet and glossy variety.

Don't miss: The hot-link sausage.

Something extra: Catfish fingers for pigless diners. Really soggy, nasty corn and stewed apples among the side dishes.

THE 411: 1935 Powers Ferry Road, Marietta. 770-933-8998. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

MADDY'S

Open since: 2003

The setting: A new barbecue and blues joint from Fat Matt alums.

The ribs: Like at Fat Matt's, the ribs are juicy but fatty. Good when you get a hankering.

The pork: Another of those sandwiches that makes you long for a Sloppy Joe.

Don't miss: The performance schedule.

Something extra: Great beers by the bottle and on tap.

THE 411: 1479 Scott Blvd., Decatur. 404-377-0301. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays, noon-10 p.m. Sundays.

PATIO DADDY-O

Open since: 2003

The setting: A small takeout counter and a way-cool patio are the combo at this ready-made 'cue shack that recently went up on the edge of downtown East Point.

The ribs: Nice texture; the smoke flavor is muted.

The pork: Soft, steamy meat heaped on buttered and grilled toast that quickly gets soggy.

The sauce: Three speeds of homemade sauce; all are decent.

Don't miss: The chili-seasoned Brunswick stew and the intriguing jalapeño baked beans. Collards are fresh and healthy.

Something extra: A sandwich of baked tofu with barbecue sauce.

THE 411: 2714 East Point St., East Point. 404-767-6764. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays.

FRESH AIR BARBECUE PLACE

Open since: 1929 (original location)

The setting: A barbecue joint from central casting, with a visible woodpile, sawdust on the floor and smoky perfume in the air.

The ribs: Not at this location.

The pork: Lean, finely minced bits that offer a nice smoke flavor but little textural appeal.

The sauce: Sharp, peppery and vinegary. The KFC-style slaw does little to tame it.

Don't miss: A second glance around this Georgia classic.

Something extra: A package of Lance crackers for the trip home.

THE 411: 1164 Highway 42 South, Jackson. 770-775-3182. 8 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 8 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sundays.

HODGES BAR-B-QUE

Open since: The restaurant has been open "about 30 years," according to a manager.

The setting: A cafeteria line with a dining room on the side.

The ribs: Nicely smoky but incredibly firm and springy.

The pork: Little flavor survives the douse of sauce.

The sauce: There's a vat of sweet tomato-based sauce that the ribs are dunked in as you order.

Don't miss: The turnip greens and the salty but good mac-and-cheese.

Something extra: Peach cobbler that has many fans.

THE 411: 2141 Candler Road, Decatur. 404-289-1804. 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 10:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays, noon-9 p.m. Sundays.

DADDY D'Z

Open since: The early 1990s

The setting: A great-looking rib shack with a hand-painted sign that's more comfortable inside than you'd guess.

The ribs: Springy in texture with a heavy, carbonized smoke flavor.

The pork: Not a whole lot of character.

The sauce: Thick, sweet and used with abandon.

Don't miss: You can order the burnt ends off the menu.

Something extra: A dyed-in-the-wool joint-y vibe that all too few places in Atlanta have.

THE 411: 264 Memorial Drive S.E., Atlanta. 404-222-0206. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sundays.

OLD McDONALD'S REAL PIT BBQ

Open since: 1978

The setting: Country 'cue, with plenty of pig paraphernalia and pitchers of tea.

The ribs: Lean but dry without a pronounced smoke flavor.

The pork: Finely pulled bits with more fat that flavor. The beef is leaner and tastier.

The sauce: A good, balanced house sauce.

Don't miss: The sharp turnoff onto Holiday Road.

Something extra: The price. This place isn't cheap.

THE 411: 5774 Holiday Road, Buford. 770-945-8608. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Thursdays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturdays, 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Sundays.

SPRAYBERRY'S BARBECUE

Open since: 1926 (original location)

The setting: A classic old-timey joint.

The ribs: Dry and listless.

The pork: Ditto. The smoke flavor here manages to be both faint in intensity and harsh in flavor.

The sauce: Nothing special.

Don't miss: The fried peach pie for dessert.

Something extra: A wall of Lewis Grizzard memorabilia.

THE 411: 229 Jackson St., Newnan. 770-253-4421. 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays.