WHERE BREAKFAST RULES THE DAY

Pastries A Go Go
250 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur; 404-373-3423

Published on: 04/20/2005

From the name and sign outside, you might expect Day-Glo colors and waitresses in shiny white boots grooving to '60s pop songs. Inside, though, Pastries a Go Go, which houses a neighborhood bakery and a tiny cafe, feels more like Alice's Restaurant, with earthy waitresses who know many of their customers as friends. The ragtag assortment of tables, funky fish tank and scattered chairs used to be more typical of downtown Decatur. But times have changed, and come June, pastry chef/owner Bob Light is moving his business across the street to Commerce Square.

While change can be daunting, especially for dedicated regulars, Light says the six-days-a-week breakfast menu will remain pretty much the same. At first glance, the fare seems standard: bacon and eggs, waffles and pancakes, grits and biscuits. But Light's culinary institute training as a pastry chef comes through in the way he works those basics. Pillowy buttermilk pancakes can come with chocolate chips, pecans or fruit; buttery-light buttermilk biscuits can be ordered with any combo of eggs, meat and cheese or, better yet, a cup of creamy sausage gravy. Bob's Loaded Potatoes, home fries with ham or veggies, tomatoes and melted cheese, have recently featured lovely slivers of zucchini, summer squash, peppers, onions and mushrooms.

Becky Stein/SPECIAL
Bob's Loaded Potatoes come with meat or veggies, tomatoes and cheese at Pastries a Go Go. So go go ahead, treat yourself.
 
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Regulars know that Sunday is the only day for Eggs Benedict, served Southern-style with poached eggs and grilled ham on biscuit halves, covered with sinfully rich Hollandaise sauce. But even if it's Tuesday, you can order a cup of Hollandaise on the side. And if that's not enough, just remember, this is a pastry shop. The cases are filled daily with freshly baked sweet cream butter croissants, nutty sticky buns as big as your fist, and multiple flavors of bagels, muffins and scones.


HOURS: Breakfast 7:30 a.m.-11 a.m. Mondays, Wednesdays-Fridays; 7:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays
CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards except Discover
RESERVATIONS: No
PARKING: On street and nearby lot
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate
TAKEOUT: Yes
THE GOOD STUFF: A chef-run pastry shop that serves breakfast six days a week may seem too good to be true. But the made-to-order goodies, from basic American to classic European, are simply splendid.
TO GROUSE ABOUT: This tiny storefront can get cramped when it's busy, which is most of the time. A move across the street to Commerce Square should help.

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