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Ria's Bluebird may be the hippest little breakfast spot in town. But what makes it really cool isn't the pierced and tattooed staff or the cheery gonzo décor. It's the fact that you could take your 70-year-old grandmother, your truck driver uncle and your vegan girlfriend here for breakfast and they'd all be happy.

Ria Pell opened her version of the perfect diner in 2001, and the masses began flocking in shortly after. Fortunately, warm weather means the flaps come up on the patio and many more weekend commuter eaters can be accommodated.

Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
The banana pancakes are a standout among the healthful dishes at Ria's Bluebird, a place where meat lovers and vegans alike will drool over the menu. Bib, anyone?
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Ria's made-from-scratch recipes really shine, starting with her feathery, golden-brown biscuits. The sticky caramelized banana pancakes melt in your mouth. Daily omelet specials might include the likes of tomato and fresh mozzarella, served with bacon, sausage or "soy-sage"; creamy grits or crispy skillet fried potatoes; and toast or a biscuit. For vegans, there's the Bionic Breakfast — hash browns with grilled zucchini, roasted corn and red peppers, topped with spicy tofu sauce. And then there's the Brisket Breakfast, shredded beef in a spicy tomato broth with two poached eggs and toasted baguette rounds.

Two permanent winners are takeoffs on Mexican classics. Huevos come atop spicy red beans and griddled blue corn tortillas. But the breakfast burrito is even more unusual, filled with scrambled eggs, red beans, potatoes and cheese and topped with tangy green salsa, a dollop of sour cream and spring green sunflower sprouts. Like so many offerings at Ria's, it's artful, tasty and pretty healthy.

HOURS: Breakfast 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sundays
CREDIT CARDS: MasterCard, Visa
RESERVATIONS: No
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Breakfast burrito, huevos rancheros, banana pancakes
CHILDREN: Caters to all ages
PARKING: Limited on-site parking and nearby street
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking
TAKEOUT: Yes
THE GOOD STUFF: As healthful as a really good-tasting breakfast place can get, Ria's has a lot going for it besides its funky, off the beaten path atmosphere and cool outdoor patio.
TO GROUSE ABOUT: The staff can be a bit aloof, and like many small places, things can get testy at peak breakfast times. For maximum enjoyment, go early in the day and early in the week.