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After a busy Saturday night, a chef trades his whites for a T-shirt and sneaks out the back door of his fine dining restaurant in East Atlanta. "I really need a big burger," he says, as he bellies up to the bar at the EARL, fires up a smoke and orders a beer.

The next day, regulars clutching Sunday papers trundle down the wooden stairs to the dimly lit grotto that is the Highland Tap. Some swizzle a leafy celery stick in a Bloody Mary. The smoky-sweet aroma of bacon and grilled steak fills the air.

Joey Ivansco/Staff (ENLARGE)
'The Coronary Bypass' burger (including eggs, bacon and cheese) plus tater tots and classic brew just scream Vortex, which features some over-the-top menu choices. Manuel's Tavern, Highland Tap and the EARL also serve fun dishes without the fuss.
Joey Ivansco/Staff (ENLARGE)
Highland Tap mixes steak house offerings with a bar setting, with dishes like steak and eggs served with a martini.
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Every weekend, those primal rituals of burgers, beers and brunch are repeated at places all over Atlanta. But at four favorite neighborhood bars — the Vortex in Midtown, the Highland Tap in Virginia Highland, Manuel's Tavern near Little Five Points and the EARL in East Atlanta — the "Three Bs" are practiced with a special sort of hip aplomb.

SPIRIT OF THE SKULL

The Vortex, 878 Peachtree St., 404-875-1667

The laughing skull with the whirlpool eyes, so prominent at the Vortex in Little Five Points, may be missing from the toned down facade of the Midtown location. But the no-nonsense attitude is the same — which means that sensitive or picky types (who the owners describe as "whiners") won't be happy here. Otherwise, the rowdy, biker bar décor, snappy service and huge draft and import beer selections will certainly win you over. And don't forget about the nifty list of single malt scotches.

The menu features funky takes on pub fare, including nachos and buffalo wings. But burgers are still king at the Vortex. Made with a half-pound of sirloin and served on sesame seed-studded egg buns, they come with a creative array of toppings, designated by quirky names.

Try "The Black & Blue," blackened with Cajun spices and slathered with blue cheese. Or if you're feeling particularly loco, combine breakfast and lunch and order "The Coronary Bypass," topped with two fried eggs, two slices of American cheese and three slices of bacon. And, by all means, get the retro-cool-and-crunchy tater tots. You can build your own omelet all-day, seven days a week. But at brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, there's also French toast and a grande breakfast burrito.

Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight, Sundays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-3 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Brunch served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Reservations: No
Children: Not allowed
Parking: Street and nearby lot
Smoking Policy: Smoking in designated areas
Takeout: Yes
Burger: "The Coronary Bypass" comes topped with fried eggs, American cheese and bacon.
Beer: Laughing Skull, the Vortex house beer, is brewed locally by Atlanta Brewing Co.
Brunch: "Brooklyn Egg-Head Sandwich" is sort of "The Coronary Bypass" without the burger.

TAP INTO A TASTY BURGER

Highland Tap, 1026 North Highland Ave. N.E., 404-875-3673

Situated below street level near the intersection of Virginia and North Highland avenues, the cave-like Highland Tap is both a serious bar and an old-school steak house. But, depending on the hour and the day, the atmosphere can change drastically, from classy-cool hangout to raucous singles scene. Early is optimum for those who want to enjoy its shadowy, stone and wood charms and surprisingly solid food — not to mention relax with an expertly mixed martini.

Though hand-cut steaks are what the Tap would like to be known for, regulars come for the burgers, made from freshly ground steak and grilled to smoky perfection. Served with grilled onions and steak fries or a creamy baked potato, it makes a gut-busting meal for under $10.

The beer selection is a little light but includes Samuel Adams lager and seasonals on tap, as well as Sweetwater 420 and Sierra Nevada. Saturday and Sunday brunch is when this place can really seem like a hidden gem, with no waiting list or lineup. And the menu of steak and eggs (including a decadent "steak benedict"), smoked pork chops and omelets makes an über-hearty remedy for a hangover headache.

Hours: 4 p.m.-3 a.m. Mondays; 11:30 a.m.-3 a.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-3 a.m. Saturdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays. Brunch served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays
Credit cards: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Reservations: No
Children: Suitable for school-age children at dinner and brunch
Parking: Street and nearby lot parking
Smoking Policy: Smoking after 11 p.m.
Takeout: Yes
Burger: The "Tap Burger" with grilled onions is smoky, ground steak perfection.
Beer: Sweetwater 420 adds local flavor to a somewhat limited draft selection.
Brunch: Steak and eggs hit the spot at this decidedly retro steak house.

THE GRANDDADDY OF ATLANTA TAVERNS

Manuel's Tavern, 602 North Highland Ave., 404-525-3447

The smoke-and-grease-stained patina of the wood paneling at Manuel's Tavern exudes history. Perusing the photos and memorabilia plastered on the walls in the multiple rooms only gives a hint of the politicos and journalists who have called it a home away from home since Manuel Maloof first opened his place in 1956. Maloof passed away in 2004, but his family carries on the tradition. And though the menu has been gussied up a bit, the grungy essence of the granddaddy of Atlanta bars remains.

Regulars favor fried foods: wings, chicken fingers, fish and chips. But there's also blackened tuna and filet mignon and nightly blue plates with veggies. Burgers run the gamut from the basic to the massive "McCloskey" and the "J.J. Special," which comes with fries and onion rings. The beer selection is a pretty good one, with at least 15 on tap, including Sweetwater and Terrapin, and several selections from San Francisco's Anchor Brewing Co. Saturday and Sunday brunch may be the most underrated meal here. The kitchen not only turns out the usual bacon and eggs and grits, but a hefty smoked pork chop and crispy home fries. And be sure to try the fluffy, fruity muffins, especially the peach.

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays. Brunch served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Reservations: No
Children: Suitable for school-age children at dinner and brunch.
Parking: Adjacent lot
Smoking policy: Designated non-smoking area
Takeout: Yes
Burger: The "J.J. Special" comes with fries and onion rings.
Beer: Manuel's has its own "602" beer, but Anchor Steam or Old Foghorn is a San Francisco treat.
Brunch: Rise and shine with a smoked pork chop, eggs, home fries and muffins.

RISE AND SHINE

The EARL, 488 Flat Shoals Ave. S.E., 404-522-3950

The name stands for East Atlanta Restaurant and Lounge. And the EARL is all those things and more. A mainstay of one of Atlanta's hippest neighborhoods and a destination for many a touring indie rock band, the front bar/dining area is hectic mix of tables and booths and kitschy knickknacks. It's a great place to grab a burger and a beer, as long as you don't mind smoke and noise. The beer list features a decent selection of import and craft brews, with quite a few on tap and more in the bottle. As you might expect, retro beers, such as PBR tallboys and Miller longnecks, are happening.

The food here runs from basic to surprisingly interesting to a bit cute. That means PBR-battered gator fingers and boiled peanuts are served alongside a ribeye steak and a salmon B.L.T. The "Earl Burger" is a half-pound monster that can be dressed up with guacamole or, even better, bacon, mushrooms and blue cheese. Brunch is called "Dunch" (lunch and dinner) and is only served after noon on Sunday, in deference to the hard-drinking regulars, who don't get up so early. The menu has lots of down-home Southern breakfast favorites, with eggs, grits and biscuits delivered with a potent Bloody Mary. And country and rock bands set up in the corner to serenade the recently awake.

Hours: 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Mondays;11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-3 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; noon-midnight Sundays. Brunch served noon-3:45 p.m. Sundays
Credit cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Reservations: No
Children: Suitable for adults only, except maybe at Sunday "Dunch."
Parking: Lot and street parking
Smoking policy: Smoking everywhere, all the time
Takeout: Yes
Burger: The big "Blue Bacon Burger" comes topped with bacon, mushrooms and blue cheese.
Beer: A Pabst Blue Ribbon tallboy may be it, but for local flavor, try Terrapin Rye Pale Ale
Brunch: Nothing says "Dunch" like eggs, grits and biscuits with a Bloody Mary