Overall rating:

Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Broiled Spanish chorizo served in a cazuela with caramelized apple is among the best dishes at The National.
Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Patatas bravas — practically Spain's national dish — consists of deep-fried potatoes, cut into chunks, and served with a snappy tomato-and-pepper sauce alongside rich aioli to balance the heat.
Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
A grilled romaine heart, sliced in half and served with a piquant piquillo pepper dressing and shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano is a crunchy highlight of the 'Snackies' menu.
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Hugh Acheson of Athens' Five & Ten is an unlikely candidate for this kind of culinary cloning. It is a local gem that's become a destination for the area — quaint and charming with an inviting menu of Southern slanted dishes simply prepared and seasonally inspired. No sushi or 40-ounce steaks, no glowing water fountains, no jeweled drop lighting.

So I was actually frightened when Acheson told me last year of plans for a second restaurant, The National, also in Athens. The space is neatly carved into a spot next to the movie bistro Ciné, with pleasant, unintimidating results. Large windows, a stylish bar and smooth gray walls give an aura of understated sophistication, while plastic tablecloths with floral patterns reminded me of my grandmother.

Acheson has placed Peter Dale, a self-made chef who has worked for years at Five & Ten, in charge of The National's kitchen. Dale had never cooked before when he asked Acheson for a job in 2002. He started as a prep cook, working literally for his dinner: instead of a paycheck, Dale sat at the bar after his shift and tried all the goodies in the goody shop, eventually working his way up the ranks.

He also spent time in Spain, working for fashionable La Broche in Madrid and a mom-and-pop joint in Zaragoza called La Lobera de Martin, where he developed a passion for the local cuisine and stellar ingredients — two of Five & Ten's greatest assets. And it is the combination of Spanish and Mediterranean influences with local freshness that is the cornerstone of The National's offerings.

Calling the concept tapas isn't just lip service to a worn trend; most of the dishes here are true Spanish tapas — plates of just a few bites, no more, referred to as "snackies" on a short, well-planned menu. It's this area of cooking where Dale shines brightest: an offering of broiled Spanish chorizo (think pepperoni) is served in a cazuela with caramelized apple — a tart, welcome contrast to the heady spicyness of the sausage. I could have eaten my weight of it.

Dale's time in Spain is reflected in his preparation of patatas bravas — practically the country's national dish and certainly its most famous tapas. Deep-fried potatoes, cut into chunks, are served with a snappy tomato-and-pepper sauce alongside rich aioli to balance the heat — no different than any of the best in Barcelona. Medjool dates are tiny bites of bliss, lanced down the center and filled with thin slices of celery and nutty-flavored Manchego cheese.

Snackies are the best of what The National has to offer, and it's easy to make a meal of them — on a first visit we never ventured into large plates at all, perfectly content with offerings of serrano ham, finochiona and Benton's prosciutto-style ham, as well as mahon and morbier cheeses and scrumptious pickles of baby turnips and beets. A grilled romaine heart, sliced in half and served with a piquant piquillo pepper dressing and shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano is a crunchy highlight.

When Dale moves beyond tapas into larger options, he begins to lose his bearings, though he never goes completely off course — cider braised pork shoulder over polenta is a little too tough and a little too bland. And flatbread with Tuscan-style salami, mozzarella, caramelized onion, arugula and pine nuts is a sexy tease, but ultimately falls flat; the crust is too thin and chewy, the toppings lost in translation.

No restaurant worth its Mediterranean sea salt can get away with a shoddy cocktail list, and bev man Chris Luken (who, like Dale, is part owner along with Acheson) has concocted a groovy list that starts with the best Manhattan on the planet — thyme-infused bourbon gets frothy when shaken with chipped ice, Patrick's ceylon tea and vermouth — and kirsch-soaked cherries. Yummers. And the wine list, like Five & Ten's is cherry-picked and affordable (though we did have an issue with a tainted bottle one evening).

Desserts are as relaxed as the rest of the menu — luscious tres leches is fancied up with coulis of mango and raspberry, and tiny custard tarts make a smooth, cinammon-y mouthful.

Relaxed, easy-going. Harder to pull off than it sounds. And yet The National makes it look so easy.

DINING REVIEW

Food: Mediterranean with a Spanish flair

Service: Relaxed and even-toned, though the kitchen can be slow at times

Address, telephone: 232 West Hancock Ave., Athens, 706-549-3450

Price range: $$

Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express

Hours of operation: Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m (2:30-5 p.m. lunch available at the bar), dinner Monday through Thursday 5-11 p.m. and Friday through Saturday 5 p.m.-midnight. Last hour before closing is tapas at the bar only.

Best dishes: Spanish chorizo with caramelized apples, stuffed Medjool dates, patatas bravas, grilled heart of romaine

Vegetarian selections: Grilled heart of romaine, flatbreads, vegetable plate

Children: Lunch and early dinner

Parking: On-street or in adjacent paid lots (usually $5)

Reservations: Yes

Wheelchair access: Yes

Smoking: Outside only

Noise level: Medium

Patio: Yes

Takeout: Yes

Web site: www.thenationalrestaurant.com

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)