Quaint, unassuming locales always pack the most punch when their food hits the table with surprising results. Case in point: Roswell's PanAsia Asian Bistro, where a variety of Asian tastes meet Southern-style sensibilities.

CAN'T JUDGE A BOOK

PHIL SKINNER / Staff (ENLARGE)
The sweet chile sauce and lemongrass chicken is among the Asian fusion food served with Southern charm at PanAsia Asian Bistro.
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The intimate eatery features modest decor and a squeaky clean environment that resembles a tea room with Asian accents. The counter display case holds cans of soda and rows of glassware. An Asian-style umbrella is propped up nearby.

But one bite into an appetizer hints at something more. The fried version of the Chinese pork dumplings come brown and crunchy on one side and tender on the other. Its luscious interior proves to be a nice balance of pork and ginger. PanAsia stacks the rest of the appetizer list with other classics such as Chinese egg rolls and Vietnamese spring rolls. Novel twists come in the form of the PanAsia rainbow roll with papaya, mango and veggies packed in a rice paper casing.

SOUTH IN YOUR MOUTH

Southern touches two-step with Oriental flair. The orange cilantro salmon combines the tang of orange sauce with a peppering of Cajun spices. Thin slices of crunchy carrots, peppers and onions sit atop the seared exterior. Inside the fish is so warm and flaky it nearly evaporates on the tongue.

Sweet and sour Southern style gives the old-school Chinese dish a Cajun overhaul, with jalapeños to boot. Diners choose from chicken, pork, tofu or shrimp. Ours came with the latter, lightly fried and dotted with said spices providing just enough bite to complement the honeyed sauce.

Many of the entrees come with a side of sautéed veggies and a lump of rice. But the real Asia-goes-

Dixie kicker is PanAsia's version of a hoecake using Japanese sweet potatoes. Creamy and slightly rich, it scores an A-plus.

The Southern charm not only accents the food, but the service as well. A recent visit found the staff catching up with a steady stream of regulars and chatting up the menu.

PanAsia attempts to keep customers of all ages happy. For $4.50, parents score a bargain as kids pick from chicken fried rice, chicken lo mein or chicken nuggets and fries. The pile of lo mein noodles wrapped around hunks of poultry and broccoli is more than enough for a tot-size appetite.

WASH IT DOWN

All of the dishes we tried came with artful presentation and flavorful gusto to match, from the milky smooth, slightly spicy tamarind coconut cream with tofu to the zesty lemongrass chicken. Wash it down with a swig of brisk jasmine iced tea or sip from a jumbo straw nestled in a frosty mix of bubble tea. Always fun, the bubble tea's floating tapioca balls shoot up through the straw as gummy, chewy treats. Prefer something stronger? PanAsia also serves beer and wine.

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PanAsia

Asian Bistro

• Where: 1580 Holcomb Bridge Road, Roswell. 770-642-8157

• Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; noon-

10 p.m. Saturdays

• Prices: Appetizers and soups $2.95-$6.95; entrees $6.95-$12.95

• Credit cards: All major credit cards except Diners Club

• Reservations: Accepted

• Recommended dishes: Chinese pork dumplings, orange cilantro salmon, sweet chile sauce and lemongrass chicken, sweet and sour Southern style with shrimp, tamarind coconut cream.

• Children: Yes

• Parking: On site

• Wheelchair access: Yes

• Smoking policy: Nonsmoking

• Noise level: Low

• Takeout: Yes

• Verdict: Fun Asian fusion goes South.