JAPAN AND FRANCE. The combination of these two cultural heavyweights is, in the world of cuisine, one of the most progressive and forthcoming. The French greats of this era — Robuchon, Boulud, Ducasse — have all borrowed, and in some cases completely adopted, a Japanese posture in their kitchens.

The resulting influence is subtle but powerful, like a slow morphine drip. An unyielding adherence to fresh ingredients coupled with delicate portions arranged like a sonnet on the plate — the effect has us at hello.

Elissa Eubanks/Staff (ENLARGE)
The potato-crusted salmon is one example of how Joli Kobe brings powerful taste to subtle Japanese-infused French dishes.
Elissa Eubanks/Staff (ENLARGE)
The almond curry chicken salad has become a ladies lunch fave at the tranquil Atlanta bistro.
Elissa Eubanks/Staff (ENLARGE)
Insalata Caprese is a refreshing, welcome respite from the oversized portions served at more popular eateries.
MOST POPULAR STORIES Punk musician Barker sues over SC plane crash Atlanta's Sexiest Men People magazine's 'Sexiest Men Alive' Dr Pepper to deliver on its free-soda promise Rapper T.I. testifies in Ohio murder trial
EMAIL THIS PRINT THIS MOST POPULAR

How surprising, then, to find all this in a strip mall on Roswell Road. Joli Kobe is the type of bistro that would fit easily beside one of the many in Paris' St.-Germain-des-Prés; here it is nestled between its sister restaurant, Kobe Steaks, and a sports bar called Frankie's. The view from this cafe is not of well-dressed French women lugging bags from a day's worth of shopping, but of the assortment of cars in the sweeping parking lot.

It is a secret, Joli Kobe. Sure, Atlantans have flocked here for years to grab a quick sandwich at the bakery, and it's one of the area's favorites for ladies' lunch — the almond curry chicken salad and classic French pastries are irresistible to the after-tennis, Oprah-watching set.

But owner Vic Watanabe has struggled for years to make the bistro a nighttime destination, evident in its incarnation a few years back as Azure Bistro, and now as Joli Kobe Bistro. Live jazz coupled with nightly deals on wine, drinks and dinner are designed to draw in the masses, but rarely is the dining room close to full in the evening.

Odd, since the bistro's tranquil setting is such a pleasant respite. Teak-stained woods, glass walls, understated table dressings, earth tones at the bar and throughout — it feels more like a spa than a restaurant.

And most of Atlanta doesn't know what it's missing. Dishes from chef Banjoed Mulsing are delightful and a refreshing departure from the oversized, heavy portions found at so many of the city's popular restaurants.

Something as simple as an organic salad has such honest appeal — fresh greens, notably crisp and flavorful, are tossed gently with dabs of goat cheese, diced tomato, candied walnuts and mandoline-thin sliced pear. Sounds ordinary, doesn't it? And yet it pops from the bowl with flavor, especially when doused with a bit of the restaurant's famous ginger salad dressing, an umami-laden take on the Japanese classic, only creamier.

Tuna tartar, though overwrought with a little too much diced tomato, comes as a timbale sheathed in paper-thin slices of astringent daikon, crowned with a half avocado. The one kitschy catch is that everything appears to be christened with micro greens, a predicament that caused one friend to ponder if the desserts would have them, too. (Thankfully, they don't.)

Joli Kobe has made a name for itself as one of the area's best bakeries, so it's not the kind of place where you should skip dessert and go elsewhere for ice cream — have the gelato. House-made, flavors such as caramel and chocolate almond come creamily draped with fresh fruit in a chilled martini glass. Most of the time it's easy to get something from the bakery plated up (have the mango tart if it's available; if not, get a napoleon).

But chomp your way through the PEI mussels first, sea salty in a smallish bowl, bathed in comforting lemongrass-and-tomato broth. Indulge in the fresh salmon, wrapped in strings of crunchy, earthy potato.

Americans, and perhaps Atlantans in particular, are a little myopic when it comes to a rarity like Joli Kobe. We want our restaurants to be more salient.

And yet it is here, surviving year after year in all its glorious subtlety.

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria are rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$ means above $35; $$$ means $20-$35; $$ means $10-$20; $ means $10 or less. ® means reservations accepted.