ANYONE WHO HAS ever played more than one hand of poker knows that a player's "tell" can give away what's in her hand — a twitch, a downward glance, the slightest burp — and everyone knows what you're thinking.

At L'Thai, in Tucker, the tell is the oohing and ahhing of the customers slurping down a bowl of this Thai restaurant's excellent tom kha with tofu. An easy tell, admittedly, but an indication of total satisfaction nonetheless.

Allen Sullivan/Special (ENLARGE)
Organic ingredients are the key to L'Thai's dishes, including the tom kha soup with fresh tofu.
Allen Sullivan/Special (ENLARGE)
Thai tea.
Allen Sullivan/Special (ENLARGE)
Spicy nham sod is loaded with peppers, ginger and minced pork.
Allen Sullivan/Special (ENLARGE)
For dessert, ka nom mhor gang is a sticky rice with coconut milk and custard.
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I would imagine that, between the grunts and ummphs that occur during the course of a plate of nham sod, most everyone hasn't a clue how well-sourced owner Pithya "Pete" Kongthavorn's organic vegetables and meats are. Even the area's best restaurants rarely focus on organics and sustainability at this level.

But for area foodies on the prowl for their next find, the restaurant has become a destination. The flavors here come alive: in that tom kha, silken and hot with coconut milk and peppered with bright cilantro, all highlighted by unimaginably fresh tofu; and in that nham sod, spicy with peppers, ginger and minced pork.

There are organic wines and beer, too, and organic meats (except pork) for $3 more per dish. Pay the three bucks and prove to yourself that there really is a difference (although how all this gets worked out in the kitchen is a mystery to me).

There was nothing tried that was less than good, but some dishes, such as the crispy basil duck, are stellar. The rustic-tasting meat is deboned and pressed, then crisped with fiery peppers until the edges are practically caramelized. This gives it a sweet-and-sour flavor and crunchy texture around the edges, like a well-made french fry.

Dishes as down to earth as pad Thai with tofu are bright tasting and less syrupy sweet than most, though more peanuts would be a plus. Even a simple sauté of beef with ginger, onions, bell peppers and mushrooms pops from the plate with depth of flavor.

The room will seem pleasant to some, hokey to others — a life-sized artificial tree is hard to miss in the center of the room; the trickling of a fountain towards the back of the dining area can hardly be heard over the mawkish strains of organ music pounding out Christmas carols a la the hockey rink.

And if you walk out without trying dessert, you'll be doing your taste buds an enormous disservice. The best: Sticky rice pudding in a coconut sauce coupled with a taro-thickened custard that is barely sweet — all served warm enough to need a good blowing off before they reach the tip of your tongue.

Mmmms and ummphs all around.