Overall rating:

I'VE NEVER played the lottery; it seems an odd way to tax the poor. But if I did -- and won -- I wonder if I would do with my winnings what the character Babette Hertsard, a former chef, does with hers in the Academy Award-winning movie "Babette's Feast," based on the story by Isak Dinesen.

She prepares an exquisite feast.

The movie's detailed exposition of the main character's culinary prowess has made it one of the most beloved foodie films of all time. But like most great things, it is as much about love and hubris as anything else.

Frank Niemeir/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Dishes by chef-owner Marla Adams include heirloom tomatoes with hearts of palm in a balsamic vinaigrette with shallots, olive oil and basil.
Frank Niemeir/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Artichoke and olive ravioli in a wine butter sauce.
Frank Niemeir/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Mint-seasoned meatballs with yogurt sauce.
Frank Niemeir/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Babette's Cafe seems to have a knack for turning simple, home-style dishes into revelations, such as juicy roast chicken with tomatoes, Niçoise olives, red bliss potatoes and shreds of grilled radicchio.
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Chef-owner Marla Adams opened Babette's Cafe in 1992, and yes — the restaurant is named after the Babette of the same story. The tale of this simple cafe seems as much one of love and hubris, too, as that of a 15-year-old restaurant.

A CIA grad, Adams rose through the ranks of some big kitchens in Atlanta before opening her own place (the restaurant moved in 2001 from its original location on North Highland to the 1916 bungalow it resides in now). Babette's Cafe had its share of attention when it opened, and developed a strong following of Midtowners looking for Adams' wholesome approach to an old-world mix of Mediterranean and French cooking.

But the restaurant had fallen off my radar until I got a mailing from Adams a couple of months ago that contained a menu that, if as good as it sounded, would be a very good reason to stop in.

I'm so very glad I did. The rough-around-the-edges renovated house, with a back patio that overlooks Freedom Park, has the unmistakable look of something that must be in constant need of repairs, despite cosmetic touch-ups of warming yellow hues on the walls, a rustic fireplace and the quaint mismatching of china pieces.

Yet the moment the threshold's crossed, the rich aroma of wine, butter and olives spirits you away to a place where crusty French bread can be dipped into the balmy au jus of an exquisite bowl of roast chicken with juicy tomatoes, Niçoise olives, red bliss potatoes and shreds of grilled radicchio. This dish made me rethink chicken altogether — warm, tender, juicy and inviting, its simpleness was a highlight of a long month of many dinners out, the kind that makes you want to recreate it at home.

Most of Babette's menu has this effect. Adams has a way of making things taste like home — a small white plate of lush heirloom tomatoes scattered with hearts of palm in a balsamic vinaigrette with shallots, olive oil and basil; artichoke and olive ravioli in a creamy wine sauce. And few dishes have the overwrought, overworked mark of a lesser chef — Adams manages to leave even something as overindulgent as gaufrette-style potato chips with warm gorgonzola cheese alone (did she work years ago at Buckhead Diner? Yes ...)

Escargot in red wine sauce suffer the fate of most snails — they are too chewy and not flavorful enough. And a tomato tartlette proves too mushy to be of serious interest.

But the rest — veal piccata classically prepared in a buttery lemon-and-white-wine sauce; piroshkis stuffed with veal and pork in a tarragon sauce; creamy, sweet corn chowder chocked with corn niblets and crab meat — all possess the essence of classic cooking: excellent technique combined with the procurement of good ingredients.

Each dish is described dutifully by a seasoned wait staff that knows the difference between "may I remove this for you?" and "you still working on that?" Their interest seems vested, making the experience at Babette's all the more hospitable.

By the time a blueberry tart arrives with a dollop of barely sweetened whipped cream, my faith in cooking had been restored. Gooey hot and chocolate-y, a pretty presentation of chocolate bread pudding smothered in a melting mound of house-made banana ice cream totally converted me.

Cooking is about more than just putting together ingredients and setting them to fire of some form. It is about love and hubris. Babette knew this, and so does Babette's Cafe.

BABETTE'S CAFE

Food: French Mediterranean

Service: Babette's possesses the kind of stellar service expected at much more expensive venues. The staff has a good base knowledge in general, and an excellent sense of the restaurant's menu. Prompt, professional, courteous.

Address, telephone: 573 North Highland Ave., 404-523-9121

Price range: $$

Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners Club

Hours of operation: Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Sunday dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. and Sunday brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Best dishes: Roast chicken with tomatoes and olives, veal piccata, heirloom tomato salad with hearts of palm, artichoke and olive ravioli, grilled corn chowder, blueberry tart, chocolate bread pudding

Vegetarian selections: Heirloom tomato salad with hearts of palm, gaufrette potato chips with gorgonzola, artichoke and olive ravioli

Children: Appropriate in early evening hours

Parking: Complimentary valet

Reservations: Accepted

Wheelchair access: Yes, entrance is to the side of the building

Smoking: No smoking

Noise level: Low

Patio: Yes

Takeout: Yes

Web site: www.babettescafe.com

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)