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Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Some of the favorites at Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q include pulled pork, served on a plate or in a sandwich (above, with collard greens).
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Tater tots are a standout side.
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Barbecue lovers can chow on traditional favorites such as a brisket plate, including mac-n-cheese and green beans.
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Some people grow up cooking and studying the craft fervently with the sole intent of becoming a chef. Others, like Jonathan Fox of Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q, fall into the whole thing naturally.

Fox got laid off from a Web development job in 1998 and has been smoking brisket and pulled pork, his brother Justin (who makes the desserts) by his side, ever since.

The two are twins from Fort Worth, Texas, and their brand of brisket, heretofore served at Smith's Olde Bar on Piedmont or as part of the brothers' catering business, has been some of the best in the area. And they've made legends of themselves serving crispy tater tots as sides, the flavor and texture of which are difficult to convey without just yelping, "Oh my God these things are good."

Now they've opened a place of their own, in the spot on DeKalb Avenue where Asada was. The space hasn't changed much, but now the walls are adorned with several Lone Star flags (big and small), signs that impart things like "horses not served at the bar" and plastic-upholstered chairs that look like remnants from a caterers' warehouse sale. Perfect. And there's a patio with ample seating. Even better.

After a seemingly endless time (April turned to May, May to June ... the restaurant finally opened Aug. 30) the brothers and their pulled pork and brisket have at last found a home.

Two guys from Texas ought to know how to smoke some brisket, and I relish the memories at Smith's of tender, moist meat that literally pulled apart with just a nudge of the fork, full of wood-smoked flavor. The edges always were gently charred with traces of dry rub in the flavor, ringed in pink. It took a couple of trips to Fox Bros. before the brisket on my plate rang true to these memories — and while the last plate of brisket I tried was better than the first (which was too dry, smokeless and nothing like the pink-ringed goodness from before) it's hard not to wonder what's going wrong.

In addition to tater tots, the Fox brothers have always been reliable in the sides department, an area usually overlooked by many of the smoke set: fresh collards cooked up with lots of spice; green beans that taste like your grandmother's Sunday best; old-fashioned mac-n-cheese, crusty and cheesy from the oven. Nothing's changed, though baked beans ran the gamut from sweet and spicy to tasting too much like something from a can.

Steering away from meat, a plate of what's called the tomminator special is a big mess of tater tots smothered in the brothers' very good (even if it does have potatoes), sweetly spiced Brunswick stew, all of which is blanketed with melted, stringy cheddar cheese. This is the kind of chaotic carb-and-cheese load that's only appreciated at about 2 a.m. after many, many beers. (Jonathan admits that a friend actually suggested the creation under just such circumstances, further proof that necessity truly is the mother of invention.)

The pulled pork, on a plate or in a sandwich, is the best the brothers offer — tender chunks of pulled meat, pink and caramelized with char toward the edges. Smoked wings are a nice nibble, but smack with an oddly glossy sauce that's too heavy with tomato. The baby back ribs are the biggest disappointment; too dry, lifeless and laden with spice rub.

If after all this you can stomach something sweet (instead of just ordering another beer), the chocolate pecan pie (when they have it) is a goo fest with a darned good crust, but ask for it without whipped cream, which came laced with cinnamon and salt. It's easy to forgive someone in the kitchen mixing up sugar with salt, but when I brought it to the attention of our waitress, she checked and reported back that the whole thing was intentional. Right. Right?

So the wait is over. Or is it? There's so much to love about Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q. But I find myself jonesing for the brisket I adore, and these guys can smoke some brisket. Let's hope they start doing it again soon.

FOX BROS. BAR-B-Q

Overall rating:

Food: Barbecue

Service: Fast and easy going.

Address, telephone: 1238 DeKalb Ave., 404-577-4030

Price range: $-$$

Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners Club

Hours of operation: Open for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, noon until 11 p.m. Saturday and noon until 9 p.m. Sunday.

Best dishes: Pulled pork, tater tots, sides of collards, mac-n-cheese, green beans, Brunswick stew and the "tomminator."

Vegetarian selections: Sides of veggies; check what they're cooked with, though.

Children: Absolutely

Parking: Adjacent lot

Reservations: Yes

Wheelchair access: Yes

Smoking: Patio only

Noise level: Medium

Patio: Yes

Takeout: Yes

Web site: www.foxbrosbbq.com

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)