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Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Saravanaa Bhavan's masala dosa. The new Decatur restaurant is part of a chain based in Chennai, India.
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Saravanaa Bhavan's dosa chef at work. Dosai are the house specialty here.
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A sturdy man behind a griddle takes a makeshift hand broom and brushes it across the flat top's hot surface, then throws a sprinkling of water over it. As a poof of steam escapes to the ceiling, he brushes the surface again, then dips a large ladle into a wet, creamy mixture by his side, pouring a scoopful on the griddle, then spreading it into a thin circle with the back of the ladle.

The mixture bubbles and sears. As it turns from liquid to solid, he turns it, then plops a potato-and-onion mixture into its center. Seconds later, he maneuvers it into a fat roll, then transfers it to a shiny, stainless steel tray. An expediter fills sections of the tray with coconut and mint chutneys, as well as a sambar that tastes of tamarind, dal and peas.

This is the dinner and show provided by Saravanaa Bhavan, a new Indian restaurant in Decatur. A chain direct from Chennai, India, with more than 60 locations across the globe, it opened Oct. 21 in the same location that was home to the beloved Madras Saravana Bhavan before, bringing cooks and chefs from India.

The kitchen is open and encased in glass, so you can press your nose against the window and watch dosai be made in front of you, or watch as naan gets pressed into the side of a tandoori oven. Think of Saravanaa as an Indian version of the Mongolian barbecue — you can watch the action while you wait. A popular chain in India, it's making its way across the Atlantic to markets like Atlanta, having established restaurants in New Jersey, New York and California.

Dosai are originally from southern India, but like corn bread in America, have become so beloved that they are popular throughout many of the country's regions. Saravanaa Bhavan serves many styles, but the most popular — and best — are masala dosa, made with a delicate batter of rice flour and lentils, then filled with the spicy mashed potato-and-onion mixture. Saravanaa's are heavenly eaten alone, but even better when dipped in wet, paste-like coconut chutney laced with green chiles and cilantro. Sambar is rich with savory flavor, too, and could actually be eaten alone as a stew or as a dip for more dosai. The only thing better is cheese dosa, which is spread with potato and sprinkled with mild cheese, then folded over on itself into melted perfection.

Watch as the griddle meister makes uttapam from a fermented dal-and-rice batter, then cooks goodies such as tomato, onions, peas or green chiles into the batter. These thick pancakes are savory and filling enough to eat as a meal, and Saravanaa makes them with a lighter hand than most, giving the pancake a chunky look, but a delicate flavor.

And dosai are what make Saravanaa Bhavan the party palace it is. On a busy weekend night, the place is packed and the restaurant sells orders of these pretty pancakes like, um, hotcakes. Tray after tray of shiny compartmentalized trays come from the kitchen, all brimming with hot pancakes.

The vegetarian menu extends to dishes of biryani, various curries and tandoor breads such as naan and wheaty paratha, but most are not standouts — palak paneer (a stew of farmer's cheese spinach) has the texture of strained baby food; chana masala is too sweet to enjoy. Mutter paneer is likable, but hardly any better than what can be found elsewhere. For curries and stews, Saravanaa has stiff competition.

But for the theater that is dosai, they're the only game in town.

DINING REVIEW

Food: Indian/vegetarian

Service: Wonderfully nice waiters who carry electronic Blackberry-like devices that shoot your order directly to the kitchen, no paper needed.

Address, telephone: 2179 Lawrenceville Highway, Ste. V, 404-636-4400

Price range: $ - $$

Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard

Hours of operation: Lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 to 2:30, Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 to 3. Dinner Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30.

Best dishes: Masala dosa, rava dosa, mutter paneer, uttapam

Vegetarian selections: All

Children: Absolutely

Parking: Adjacent lot

Reservations: Accepted

Wheelchair access: Yes

Smoking: No smoking

Noise level: Medium

Patio: No

Takeout: Yes

Website: www.saravanabhavan.com

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)