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What makes a restaurant romantic is largely in the heart of the beholder, ranging from champagne and nine courses at the Ritz to a chili cheese dog at the Varsity. It's all in how it makes you feel.

Still, there are places that come to mind when I think of intimate dining — the kind that involve an enticing menu, but also all the accoutrements in ambience to heighten the mood while relaxing the spirit. These five spots offer both.

Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
Husband and wife Tyler and Tiffanie Westbrook connect with each other while reviewing menus. A romantic Valentine's Day evening calls for the right combination of cuisine and atmosphere.
Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
If the conversation isn't clicking after the earlier courses, maybe a chocolate dessert will inspire your sweety.
Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
Riccardo Ullio tastes the cava served at Cuerno, which features a Spanish menu.
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Cuerno, not yet rated
905 Juniper Street, 678-904-4584
www.cuernorestaurant.com

Riccardo Ullio's latest venture, recently opened Cuerno, is well-worth the wait. It may be his most ambitious venture yet, and certainly the most rewarding from a diner's perspective (that's saying something, since Sotto Sotto, his Italian spot in Inman Park, is among Atlanta's best). The menu and wine list are all sexier-than-sexy Spanish, a cuisine long overlooked on the Atlanta dining scene. Antique tiles brought from Italy and a life-sized iron bull sculpture (cuerno means "horn") are highlights of the small space enhanced by low lighting and strains of Spanish guitar. Amid a menu of classics such as patatas bravas and luscious, garlicky diver scallops la plancha style, as well as succulent cochinilla (confit of suckling pig), is a sensuous splash of cava served from a Catalanian-style porron. What's more romantic than drizzling sparkling wine into your mouth from the spout of this glass genie's lamp? Enjoy with a spoonful of crema Catalana, Spain's answer to creme brulee. The smells, the sounds, the tastes; this adventure is a sensual treat. And next door at Beleza, Ullio is offering aphrodisiac chocolates from local artisan Kristen Hard, with flavors from Latin America designed to stoke the fire in your passion: an Aztec-inspired bon bon with hints of chili and Caribbean spice-infused dark chocolate; coconut, catuaba, maca root and suma root; and the "super sex chocolate" made with energizing guarana and passion fruit. All are designed to improve libido and enhance the evening's activities. Sunday through Thursday 5:30 p.m. to midnight. Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. $$$

D Morgan's
28 W. Main St., Cartersville. 770-383-3535.
www.dmorgans.com | • Map & details

Chef Derek Morgan's eponymous restaurant in Cartersville is a welcome respite to the unyielding din of sameness two blocks away on U.S. 41. Hard pine floors, fresh flowers, linens and a sophisticated menu of globally inspired dishes make it a romantic get away and a gourmet find all in one. Morgan uses high-quality ingredients, hires a professional wait staff and cooks in an unusually large kitchen. The wine list isn't deep, but amid typical Cabs and Chardonnays are varietals that pair nicely with what comes from the kitchen. And what comes from the kitchen rarely disappoints. This chef has a deft hand and a good palate, pairing pretties such as succulent duck confit with a fine display of mashed potatoes and seasonal veggies, or paring down calamari with mixed greens and bright ginger vinaigrette. His style is refined, not manipulated, and shows off his smarts. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Downstairs wine bar open later. $$$

La Tavola Trattoria
992 Virginia Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-873-5430.
www.fifthgroup.com | • Map & details

An evening at La Tavola Trattoria is full of relaxed romance, the kind that will have you sipping Sartori Amarone Valpolicello and singing along to the rumbling voice of Nat King Cole. Both may lead to romance, reminiscing or a sentimentally sexy combination of the two. In between, the kitchen will offer a candid approach to Italian cooking, with few fervent flourishes — just a lot of honest cooking with a modern touch. Simple charcuterie in the form of speck and prosciutto proffered with a few olives, little more; or mussels with parsley, oregano and thyme, the broth a perfect implement for dipping crusty slices of bread. Well-made risotto, plump seared scallops, beet salad — all served simply, and with lots of integrity. Coupled with the restaurant's eminent charm, a night out here is full of amoré. Dinner: 5:30-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-midnight Fridays-Saturdays, 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. $$$

Repast
620 Glen Iris Drive, Atlanta. 404-870-8707.
www.repastrestaurant.com | • Map & details

The look is Chelsea evening in New York: rich avocado tones give way to an industrial, open space where wooden beams and low-lit candles offer texture, warmth and lots of romantic undertones. The menu that chef-owners and husband-and-wife team Joseph Truex and Mihoko Obunai have crafted is a list of well-prepared, simple dishes that have classic bistro appeal. Even better, this Midtown gem has done nothing but improve since opening in 2006. Flavors range from southern Louisiana to the south of Spain, from creamy grits to figs to country ham to Spanish style chorizo. Well-sourced ingredientsshow off the kind of smart cooking that comes from classical training paired with lots of time behind a busy kitchen line, all presented with elegant, but minimal flair. And this couple always makes it easy to save room for dessert. The menu changes often to match the seasons, but there's always a stable of dishes that while universally appealing, offer a little something more than the ordinary, and certainly sensuous enough for a valentine. 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

Tierra
1425 Piedmont Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-874-5951.
www.tierrarestaurant.com | • Map & details

Tierra embraces that immeasurable line between gourmet and good — foodies come for the diverse, pan-Latin menu, and keep coming back because everything tastes so great. The small indoor dining room is sexy and brooding; an outdoor balcony not only expands the space, but the romantic mood, too. Chef-owners Dan and Ticha Krinsky know enough to leave favorites such as the steamed mussels and the ever-loved pionono alone. They also know to add weekly changes (usually to celebrate a Latin country's holiday). Staples like the Salvadorean papusa, with thick corn tortillas melded together with gooey cheese offset by tart curtido (think coleslaw), and the Brazilian-style roasted chicken with a sauce of cashews and peanuts swimming in a ginger-laced coconut milk, so organically good, are the essence of sexy soulful cooking. The tres leches is the best anywhere. Ever. A wine list short but brimming with all sorts of Latin and Spanish selections rounds out the evening. Every summer the owners spend a week in a different Latin country to bring back dishes for their specials list, as well as art for the walls of this cozy valentine spot in Ansley Park. 6-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays.; 6-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Closed Sunday and Monday. $$$

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)