It took me almost half an hour to realize that the tightly cropped, billboard-sized photos looming from the walls of Eros, a “world tapas bar” where Piebar once held court, were of naked women.

Those pictures are about as subtle as Eros gets.

We’ve been here before: the burly bartenders, the leggy waitresses, the sexed-up atmosphere with loud Euro-tech music and the videos to go with it. The shallow menu that touts tapas from around the world. The “signature” drinks that mimic every Kool-Aid-flavored cocktail in town.

Even the name, Eros, is a wee bit over the top, n’est-ce pas?

This kooky copulation concept is from restaurateurs Nikita “Nik” Panagopoulos of Fishmonger fame and George Karameros, who owned several restaurants in Greece. Inside the space magnificently created for the former Trust Co. Bank by Atlanta architect Henri Jova in 1962, the design is all sex and toile de Jouy prints (interesting combo, actually). Streamlined, almost airy, the look is far less involved than Piebar’s; the outside “pod” seating has been stripped to a bare minimum of décor, relying mostly on small round tables and loud videos for enticement and distraction.

The owners are almost always around, and will pull up a friendly chair and ask you things like, “Do you know what Eros means, baby?” before you’ve had time to finish your first drink.

Well, yes, I do.

I also have a pretty good built-in B.S. detector. With each sip, it was sounding off rather loudly.

Small plates from Italy, Spain, India, Britain and Greece are the highlights of a menu designed by Panagopoulos and chef Rafael Mendoza.

I can’t figure out if dishes like bang bang shrimp, the deep-fried appetizer made famous by Bonefish Grill restaurants, is on the menu because it’s something good to eat, or for the name’s obvious connotation. Ordering up a couple of plates to share with friends, I expected the latter.

I got the former. For as much fun as anyone with a serious appetite can make of Eros, the ribbing stops when the food makes it to the table. Dish after dish, this restaurant offered a lot more than I was counting on.

First, the plates are actually small, meze-sized portions, not appetizers disguised as tapas. So it’s easy to try lots of things and share (and they’re priced accordingly, too).

Second, there’s plenty you’ll want to share. Cheese saganaki is one of my favorite Greek dishes, a thick slice of pan-seared kasseri cheese doused with butter, lemon and ouzo. My only regret is that it’s not brought to the table flaming with a loud “opa!” to accompany it.

Shrimp saganaki, a dish of shrimp and feta cheese, is different here than the tomato-laden versions so often offered at traditional Greek restaurants. At Eros, it’s lighter, with more feta and garlic and lots of juicy flavor for sopping with bread.

(Saganaki is the name for the skillet in which these two dishes are traditionally made, in case you’re confused.)

Patatas bravas, with a creamy remoulade, is every bit as good here as it is in Spain — hunks of fried potatoes, crispy-rimmed with tufts of heat and starch toward the center are mouth-watering when dipped into the spicy sauce.

Panagopoulos spent a lot of time in South Africa, and many of the dishes reflect its influence, though they are creative stretches to traditional tapas or meze.

But it’s hard to argue with something as admittedly goofy-sounding as “boerewors sliders,” when they taste as good as they do. A type of South African sausage, the subtly seasoned meat makes for a good sammie, between small hamburger-style buns.

There are throwaway dishes: Blackened fish tacos are disconcertingly soggy; fried calamari completely unremarkable; empanadas a mess of pastry with no flavor.

But for the most part, Eros offers many great dishes: Grilled lamb chops delicately seasoned with lemon and oregano served with tzatziki sauce, and spicy chorizo with blue cheese and dates served lollipop style are totally enjoyable.

It seems that, in spite of itself, Eros may actually offer something more than just a lust-laden lark. Racy, ridiculous, yes. But it’s also a darned good tapas restaurant.

Food: “World” tapas
Service: Young and somewhat inexperienced, but earnest
Price range: $-$$
Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express
Hours of operation: Open for dinner and late-night 5-10:30 p.m. Sunday-Monday; 5 p.m.-midnight Tuesday; and 5 p.m.-2 a.m.Wednesday through Saturday
Best dishes: Cheese saganaki, shrimp saganaki, chorizo lollilpop, “bang bang” shrimp, lamb chops, patatas bravas
Vegetarian selections: Greek salad, zucchini fried chips, cheese saganaki, mixed Greek olives and feta
Children: Hmm … I’m gonna say no.
Parking: Complimentary valet
Reservations: Yes
Wheelchair access: Yes
Smoking: No
Noise level: Medium
Patio: Yes
Takeout:
Address, telephone: 2160 Monroe Drive, N.E., Atlanta. 404-549-2433
Web site: www.erostapas.com

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you’re looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

PRICING CODE: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)