Pho Dai Loi in Forest Park is so unassuming and inexpensive that it's sometimes hard to believe how great the food is. Beloved by both foodies and chow hounds — not to mention the Asian families who flock here every day — it's become something of a shrine to the pleasures of basic, but flavorful Vietnamese cooking. There's now a second location on Buford Highway.

VIET SIMPLE: A dip down from busy Jonesboro Road, Pho Dai Loi is perched in an asphalt parking lot, much like a fast food restaurant. Inside, the look is more school cafeteria-meets-diner, with pale green walls, stark fluorescent lighting, tile floors and institutional tables and chairs. But, somehow, the tidy, no frills atmosphere adds to the charm of the place — especially when it's full of folks happily slurping big bowls of noodle soup. And the fast, friendly servers and by-the-numbers menu make ordering easy.

PHO GOOD: Crispy, Vietnamese-style egg rolls and soft steamed rolls filled with shrimp, sliced pork, crunchy veggies and herbs make fine appetizers. But true to its name, pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) is the main attraction. The clear broth has an authentically rich flavor, highlighted by star anise, ginger, cloves and other aromatic spices. The noodles are silky and just al dente. Meaty combos range from thin slices of rare round steak and well-done flank to more intense soft tendon and tripe. There's also chunky white meat chicken in savory chicken broth. The accompanying plate, heaped with bean sprouts, basil, coriander, jalapeno and lime, is an essential part of the pho experience.

Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Bun (vermicelli) or com (rice) dishes have choices of toppings.
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HOURS: 9:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 9:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays CREDIT CARDS: All major PRICES: Rolls, $2.50-$2.75; pho, $4.75-$5.95; com and bun, $4.50-$7.50 RESERVATIONS: Yes RECOMMENDED DISHES: Pho (Vietnamese noodle soup), bun (vermicelli) dishes, rolls, fresh lemonade PARKING: Lot parking WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes SMOKING POLICY: No smoking NOISE LEVEL: Moderate TAKEOUT: Yes VERDICT:Great, bargain-priced Vietnamese food in a tidy, no-frills setting.

BUN FUN: Bun (vermicelli) dishes are another good choice. The soft, white rice noodles are layered in a bowl — with plenty of bright, crunchy shredded lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumbers, and herbs, plus ground peanuts and fried shallots — and topped with the likes of grilled pork, marinated shrimp or lemon grass chicken. The snappy contrast of textures and cool and warm temperatures makes it perfect for summer lunch or supper. And drizzled with the traditional Nuoc cham fish sauce or kicked up with a squirt of peppery hot sauce, the flavors become even more intricate. Com (rice) dishes include other interesting combinations, such as broken jasmine rice with grilled pork chops and sunny side up eggs.

DRINK SWEET: There's no beer or wine at Pho Dai Loi. But the beverage list beckons with plenty of treats. Freshly made lemonade is a sweet-tart favorite, and good match for the bun. For more exotic tastes, try a soursop, jackfruit or avocado shake.