PONCEY-HIGHLAND

Pura Vida

Kimberly Smith/Staff (ENLARGE)
Milk adds a creamy dimension to the tilapia in Pura Vida's ceviche con leche, which is served with fried corn.
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Chef Hector Santiago, who travels to Latin America on recipe-finding missions, picked up this idea for ceviche from a Peruvian taxi driver whisking him from fish market to fish market. The addition of milk to the ceviche con leche (one of four ceviches on the menu) adds a layer of creaminess to this otherwise crisp tapas-menu favorite. Diced tilapia marinates in lemon and lime juices, salt, fish sauce and celery juice for 15 minutes. Sliced white onions that have soaked in ice water lay over the dish, and native Peruvian peppers are made into a gelatin, diced up and added as well. Served with fried corn.

• THE 411:$8. 656 N. Highland Ave. 404-870-9797, www.puravidatapas.com.

CABBAGETOWN

Agave

Chef/owner Jack Sobel fiddled with this recipe for years until he found a version that couldn't be improved. The shrimp, he says, is how it surpasses his standards. Gulf shrimp is dusted with a Chilean herb rub and seared rare on the grill. It cooks the rest of the way in a bowl with lemon and lime juices, jalapeños, vine-ripe tomatoes, cilantro, apple cider vinegar, fresh basil, salt, pepper, extra virgin olive oil, yellow onion chopped finely and a splash of homemade salsa. When ordered, chefs chop sashimi grade tuna, add it to the mix and pour it into a martini glass with an extra spritz of lime.

• THE 411:$8.75. 242 Boulevard S.E. 404-588-0006, www.agaverestaurant.com.

ROSWELL

Ceviche Taqueria & Margarita Bar

Fish tacos and chicken enchiladas may be flying out of the kitchen, but you can't go wrong with this Roswell restaurant's namesake. There are three ceviches on the menu, but co-owner Trent Bramblett points guests toward the tilapia. Marinated in lime juice for eight hours, the dish is topped with fresh chopped tomatoes, cilantro, onions and jalapeños. Served with crackers. Twelve different margaritas and more than 20 tequilas help wash it down.

• THE 411:$8.95. 963 Canton St., Roswell. 678-461-4025, www.cevichetaqueria.com.

— Lynn Peisner