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Cameli's on Ponce is one of those love-it-or-hate-it kind of places. And while two words, "gourmet" and "joint," tacked onto the family name probably account for a good bit of that, the unusually crispy, thin-crust pizza is what makes Cameli's different.

Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Cameli's Gourmet Pizza Joint on Ponce de Leon Avenue has recently refurbished the dining room and expanded to include a bar and WiFi lounge.
Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
The Monster Slice has a crust that's airy and has a tendency to crunch and crumble.
Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
The McLeod Nine, with garlic sauce, chicken, spinach, roasted red peppers and red onions, is one of the 10 specialty pies on the menu.
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RENOVATED JOINT

The good news — especially for anyone who remembers George and Joe Cameli's really good Italian restaurant in East Atlanta — is that Cameli's has undergone an expansion and renovation project in the past year. Along with a new bar and refurbished dining room (with table service in the evenings), there's another smaller dining area and funky Wi-Fi lounge. And the menu has grown to include more appetizers, sandwiches and pastas. But those who've always been partial to Cameli's offbeat, chill vibe have nothing to fear. The colorful Ford Factory Square location and young staff still keep the joint jumping.

MONSTER PIZZA

Cameli's notoriety among the hip and frugal is built on what's known on the menu as "The Infamous Monster Slice" — a huge triangle of pizza cut from a behemoth pie. The fresh dough is stretched thin and fired-up to create a crust that's airy and, like flat bread, has a tendency to crunch and crumble. One thing's for sure, it's never soggy and holds up like a champ when reheated for a minute in the microwave. The great variety of toppings is where that "gourmet" word comes in. On a recent evening, a small "classic thin" pie topped with Cameli's family recipe Italian sausage and roasted red peppers proved to be a fine combination, melding nicely with just the right amount of sauce and cheese. Other toppings range from broccoli and black olives to prosciutto and salami. Among the 10 types of specialty pies, there's the meaty Papa C, with pepperoni, Italian sausage, red onions, mushrooms and black olives, and the veggie Smart Pie, with sun-dried tomato sauce, spinach, roasted potatoes, roasted red peppers and gorgonzola.

AND PASTA, TOO

Joe Cameli's homemade sauces and fresh pastas were the highlight of the original East Atlanta restaurant. He's still making the sauces here, though the pastas are fresh frozen. The fettuccini Bolognese is a traditional Italian meat sauce, a bit sweet and a bit spicy, with lots of carrots and onions, over egg noodles. Or try the mushroom fettuccini in a creamy crimini and porcini mushroom sauce. Ravioli Peperonata is a creamy-caliente blend of mascarpone and sun dried tomato ravioli in a sautéed red pepper, onion and tomato sauce. Greek salad, with feta cheese, artichoke hearts, Greek olives and sliced Roma tomatoes, makes a good starter, big enough to share.

BAR NOIR

The bar has become the focus, especially late, when it turns into a lively spot for slurping cocktails, munching a Monster Slice and jamming on the jukebox. There's draft beer, an inexpensive wine list and drink specials every night. Look for trivia nights, and even karaoke, coming soon.