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Sandwich shops can easily cop out to simplicity. But those packing an extra helping of thought between its bread strike home with quickie comfort. Alpharetta's Rising Roll is one of those.

Bob Andres/bandres@ajc.com (ENLARGE)
The muffuletta combines ham and Italian salami with a slightly melted pairing of Swiss and provolone cheeses plopped on tandoori naan bread.
Bob Andres/bandres@ajc.com (ENLARGE)
The Turkey Lurkey makes a great lunch with roasted turkey, provolone cheese, cucumbers and roasted red peppers.
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GET IN LINE

Customers enter the fairly nondescript restaurant and file in line for counter service ordering. A sprawling menu board proclaims the goods. Variety always takes a deli to the next level, and Rising Roll follows suit. A laundry list of cold, pressed and baked sammies makes decision-making a near chore. That's not even mentioning the salads.

As if committing to a sandwich selection isn't difficult enough, there's the task of choosing a bread, either French, seven grain, Swiss and Romano, sourdough, croissant or wrap.

But it's all worth it as the staff plops the order onto a tray and sends you to the cash register. Fork over the green, and it's meal time.

SUPER SAMMIES

We gravitate toward the pressed selections. Each pressed sandwich includes the restaurant's homemade tandoori naan bread. After preparation, the sandwiches go into a press and receive a brushing of olive oil. Kudos to the muffuletta, an admirable representation of a Big Easy delight. Ham and Italian salami join a slightly creamy, melty pairing of Swiss and provolone cheeses. The kicker is the minced olive salad and the zesty punch of a spicy oil dressing. Cuban sammies come on Cuban bread and either spicy or regular. We opt for the former. Thin slivers of jalapeño peppers and pepper Jack cheese provide a jolt among the meaty slices of marinated pork loin and smoked ham.

The Key West Crab Cake comes out of the oven with a blanket of cheddar covering a uniformed patty. Enjoyable enough, but next time we'll set our sights on the Chicken Melt starring Rising Roll's popular chicken salad with cheddar cheese, bacon, lettuce and tomato.

Cold creations run the gamut from the California Turkey (guacamole, provolone, lettuce and tomato) to the Firecracker Roast Beef armed with roasted red peppers, pepper Jack cheese and hot sauce.

SHOOT FOR A SALAD

Rather skip a sandwich? The salad selection wrangles together about a half-dozen concoctions. Next time we might explore the Maui with Romaine lettuce, chunks of grilled chicken, a scattering of blue cheese crumbles, Mandarin oranges and chopped pecans.

But the sandwiches rule Rising Roll's roost. And its roost boasts quite a roster perfect for that lunchtime grab.

• Hours: 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays.
• Reservations: No
• Recommended dishes: muffuletta, Spicy Cuban.
• Prices: Sandwiches $6.70-$7.39; salads $6.75-$7.49; soups $3.25-$5.25
• Web site: www.risingroll.com
• Verdict: A sprawling and creative lunch menu.