NOSH SPECIAL
Cobblers capture flavors of seasonPublished on: 08/07/2008
Southern sweetness comes in a variety of ways, from a charming accent to a soul-warming dessert. Cobblers carve out their own niche in the latter category. Looking for that special bite? Each of these spots put their own spin on the timeless treat.
— Jon Waterhouse
Elissa Eubanks/eeubanks@ajc.com | |||
| The California-inspired Pacific Kitchen gives a nod to its Southern locale with peach cobbler topped with ginger-tinged ice cream. | |||
DOWNTOWN
Chef Sonya Jones' bakery may be best known for its sweet potato pie and high-profile fan, former President Bill Clinton. But others may argue that Jones deserves equal kudos for her blackberry and peach cobblers. Both are based on old family recipes. But Jones says the key is getting fresh fruit at its seasonal peak, and the Georgia peaches are top notch this year, says Jones. She doesn't overpower the fruits with other ingredients, but adds just enough, she says, to enhance the natural flavors.
• 234 Auburn Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-221-1157, www.sweetauburnbread.com.
INMAN PARK
Although Pacific Kitchen specializes in California-based cuisine, it has its share of Southern sensibilities. The restaurant knows that simple-yet-succulent desserts are the way to go. The peach cobbler arrives all toasty, comfy and gloppy in all the right ways. A touch of ginger-tinged ice cream serves as the topper.
• 913 Bernina Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-223-9292, www.pacific-kitchen.com.
MIDTOWN
You haven't tasted the South without a bite of Mary Mac's fried chicken, which should be required local eating. The same could be said for its Georgia peach cobbler. A conglomeration of sugar, butter, canned peaches and its the syrup account for the flavor. The crispy crust comes to life with vegetable shortening, salt, sugar, crushed ice and flour.
• 224 Ponce de Leon Ave., Atlanta. 404-876-1800, www.marymacs.com.
DOWNTOWN
The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta Grill
Sure, the Atlanta Grill at this posh hotel is super swanky. However, its staff isn't above serving its Southern-style peach cobbler in a mason jar. But it does get amped up with additional culture. The regional reference gets international flavoring with a satin-like scoop of peach and champagne Bellini gelato.
• 181 Peachtree St. N.E., Atlanta. 404-659-0400, www.ritzcarlton.com.
GRANT PARK
Chef Anthony E. Williams creates both peach and apple cobblers within the confines of his storefront bakery and catering business, but the peach is his best-seller. This may account for the personal touch Williams puts into his version of the cobbler. For the peach, he laces it with both cinnamon and nutmeg. And the secret to the perfect crust, he says, lies in the classic 3-2-1 formula. He uses three pounds of flour, two pounds of shortening or butter and one pound of water. (He adds 1/2-ounce of salt, too). And make sure and don't over mix, he says.
• 371 Boulevard S.E., Atlanta, 404-525-1926, www.chefanthonysatlanta.com.
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