Restaurant gurus Chris and Michele Sedgwick make it their mission to prove foodie delights reside OTP. The Sedgwick Restaurant Group continues driving the point home with Bistro VG, Pure Taqueria, Aspen's and Theo Brother's Bakery. But nowhere, arguably, is it more evident than at Vinny's on Windward, a gratifying and hip exercise in Italian and American fusion.

Phil Skinner/pskinner@ajc.com (ENLARGE)
The seared tuna sandwich is part of a deep menu at Vinny's on Windward.
Phil Skinner/pskinner@ajc.com (ENLARGE)
The margherita pizza is a both basic and exceptional member of the Alpharetta restaurant's roster of pies.
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A HINT AT SOLID EXECUTION

The first hint you're in for a solid experience lies within the massive brick walls encasing Vinny's. An array of black duct work runs across the lofty ceiling. And the unabashed open kitchen shows the restaurant has little, if anything, to hide.

The unadulterated feel comes to the table, literally. A substantial wooden table is our mealtime work surface. Its sturdiness foreshadows what soon will roll out of Vinny's kitchen.

START, BUT DON'T STOP

A smart eatery smacks you hard and firmly out of the gate, reeling you in with a warm grip. Vinny's deftly does this on the appetizer front. Holding back from overstuffing on a basket of homemade bread provides a hefty challenge, a plate of peppered olive oil there for the dipping.

Vinny's version of the Caesar salad finds a large bundle of heart of Romaine with drizzles of a creamy anchovy-based dressing streaking across it. Parmesan shavings and thin strings of fried onions dress it up with both visual aesthetics and flavorful tone. With the fresh pear and arugula salad, an even larger conglomeration of flavors connect in sweet and sour contrast. Thin slices of pear kick back among a bed of arugula. Zesty pecans and the unmistakable tang of goat cheese intermingle with a savory shallot and cherry vinaigrette.

The jumbo lump crab cake is enough to have you throw down the fork in submission; it's that divine. An apple-fennel slaw with just the right amount of crispy sweetness crowns the cake. Vinny's knows the fantastic find undoubtedly leaves diners with wanton desire. So it's smart enough to offer an entree-size version complete with julienne veggies and peppered linguini.

MAIN EVENT MASTERY

Vinny's lunch and dinner menus proclaim tempting variety (hangar steak, a seared tuna sandwich, roast rack of lamb, a roster of pizzas). But simply go no further than the prosciutto-wrapped shrimp and scallops. A platter of those would do just fine. But Vinny's ups the ante with a wonderful assortment of grilled veggies (eggplant, zukes, red peppers, red onions) and mow-you-down Parmesan polenta cakes. The latter are a pair of thick triangles slightly crispy on the outside. But bites reveal a subtle softness and cornlike captivation.

Simpler pleasures lie in the margherita pizza, a basic-yet-splendid, thin-crust pie with home-grown tomatoes, mozzarella and the brisk zap of basil. Our accommodating waitress recommends the roast rack of lamb for our repeat visit. The signature piece wades in a raspberry shallot sauce and brings veggie bling in the form of shiitake mashed potatoes and thin beans.

CLOSE IN STYLE

No matter how swollen the midsection, don't pass up Vinny's from-scratch sorbet. We scoop into a double team of prickly pear and passion fruit, a light and satisfying pairing that yanks on the taste buds with touches of fruity sourness. Its chocolate mousse is less creamy than expected. Instead, it arrives with a hard chocolate casing and a strong, not quite overly rich, chocolate interior.

All nonbelievers of OTP culinary relevance need just visit Vinny's on Windward.

Its homey-yet-artistic design qualities, dedicated service and out-of-the-park creations bring more than enough evidence.