Havana South's owners got tired of driving outside the county for good Cuban food. So Alonzo and Carmen Elisa Borja decided to bring their version of Cuban sandwiches, ropa vieja and paella to Gwinnett. The result is good enough to entice people from outside the county to give their restaurant a try.

Vino Wong/vwong@ajc.com (ENLARGE)
Arroz con pollo is chicken and yellow rice served with plantains.
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FAUX OCEAN VIEW

A colorful mural featuring three amigos smoking cigars and playing dominoes on a beach contributes to the laid-back vibe of the casual eatery. Ceiling fans with wooden palm fronds slowly spin above the tables and booths that were filled during our weekday lunchtime visit. Burlap tablecloths and a clever border of cigar boxes along the top of the walls add a touch of whimsy to the setting. While we dine, Carmen made her way around the restaurant, stopping at each table and chatting with customers.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The crispy empanadas, filled with seasoned ground beef, are a cut above the handheld appetizers we've tried elsewhere. They're so good we don't give a second glance to the basket of buttered, toasted bread that arrives. Sides like the maduros — caramelized ripe plantains — satisfy the sweet tooth, while the black beans are tasty but watery. The popular Cuban sandwich has a nice crunchiness to the bread and the requisite pork, ham, Swiss cheese and pickles.

HOME COOKING, CUBAN-STYLE

The menu features traditional Cuban pork, chicken, beef and seafood dishes. Splurge on the paella ($22.50 lunch and dinner) for a combination of stewed pork and chicken, small shrimp, mussels in the shell, squid, tomatoes, peas and yellow rice that almost melts in your mouth. Although the chicken was dry, the moist pork made up for it. The thin, crunchy Bistec Empanisado, a breaded steak dish, was more crust than steak. Creamy rice pudding sprinkled with cinnamon is among the puddings, custards, pies, pastries and cakes offered for dessert. They pair nicely with a cup of Cuban coffee.

• Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays (closed Mondays)
• Credit cards: All major
• Prices: Appetizers, $2.95-$10.95; soups and salads, $3.95-$6.95; entrees, $7.95-$34.95
• Recommended dishes: Empanadas, Cuban sandwich, paella
• Parking: On site
• Noise level: Low
• Takeout: Yes
• Web site: www.havanasouth.com
• Verdict: Satisfying Cuban standards