Big D’s Barbeque

Big D’S Barbeque makes no apologies for its somewhat politically incorrect indulgence in slabs of meat and penchant for the deep fryer. You may regret it later come weigh-in time. But the restaurant’s what-the-hey approach to health-conscious abandonment and guilty pleasures makes doing something that may be wrong feel so right.

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Rich Addicks/raddicks@ajc.com

A pulled pork plate with two sides and a rack of dry-rubbed ribs are among traditional barbecue dishes at Big D’s in Alpharetta.

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A DEEP-FRIED OVERDOSE

Outside of its bread and Brunswick stew, all of Big D’s appetizers take a dive in the fryer. Our first experience comes courtesy of a pair of complimentary paper baskets of hush puppies. These smallish nuggets instantly delight with the expected blip of onion. The fried pickles, dubbed frickles, are juicy round slices with a golden covering. The onion rings are admirable examples, firm and extra crispy. The fried green beans hit the novelty button, but the fried shell overpowers the flavor of the veggies. The pickles, rings and green beans come in a sampler platter, a good way to experience variety.

MEAT MATTERS

Don’t let the menu’s inclusion of garden-fresh salads fool you. It’s meat that matters at Big D’s. Massive ribs are a house favorite. Combination plates come in arrangements of ribs, chicken quarters, chopped chicken, pulled pork or brisket, or try them on a sandwich. Burgers and hot wings bring additional protein.

Big D’s specialty, though, is the pork brownie — the blackened exterior cuts of meat. These flavor-packed bites have the texture of jerky, and since they bear most of the seasoning, these nibbles often lean on the rich side. Dab a bit into the vinegar-based or sweet house sauce, and it’s barbecue bliss.

A FAIR TO REMEMBER

After dinner, if you dare, grab a house-made funnel cake. The powdered sugar-tinged dessert, not often found outside of a fairground, provides the perfect exclamation point for this foray into lowbrow grub gratification.

• Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
• Credit cards: All major
• Prices: Appetizers $1.25-$9.95; salads $2.95-$6.95; sandwiches and burgers $3.79-$4.99; entrees $4.99-$25.99
• Reservations: No
• Recommended dishes: Ribs, fried pickles, pork brownies
• Parking: Lot parking
• Noise level: Moderate
• Takeout: Yes
• Verdict: No-frills corner barbecue joint with a love affair with the deep fryer.