DISHING
Burgers are ablaze
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Think following the election is a mindblower? Try recording a true history of the hamburger. There isn’t one. About all anyone will agree on is that a pounded beef patty was first served between two slices of white bread somewhere around the turn of the 20th century. Did that happen at Louis’ Lunch in New Haven, Conn.? Or did Fletcher Davis introduce the world to his beef patty between buns at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis?
For a sandwich of such unknown origins, the hamburger could arguably be the most popular in the world, and certainly the one foodstuff most associated with the United States, besides maybe peanut butter.
And it’s come a long way — and I’m not just talking about two all beef patties special sauce lettuce cheese pickles onions on a sesame seed bun, either. The hamburger has become a modern marvel on today’s menus, starting with Daniel Boulud’s groundbreaking $32 sirloin burger stuffed with braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffles on a Parmesan bun at his DB Bistro Moderne in New York to the cutesy sliders found on nearly every menu from here to the West Coast.
Burgers are hot. And Atlanta is getting in on the heat.
Flip, a modern burger joint at 1537 Howell Mill Road, is scheduled to open this fall, according to its creative director, Richard Blais (of “Top Chef” and Home). These burgers are apparently on fire, since the concept is already looking to expand to New York.
Here’s why: a menu offering 15 to 20 kinds of small, slider-sized burgers served with vodka-battered onion rings, sweet potato tots and fresh veggies as “flip sides,” plus a liquid nitrogen milkshake bar with (yes, the rumors are true) a Krispy Kreme milkshake (as well as a bacon milkshake, a sweet tea milkshake, and as Blais relayed to me, “of course the standards as well.” I’m hoping that means chocolate and strawberry.)
Much is “in progress,” according to Blais, who also has confirmed that he will appear in Atlanta as part of the “Top Chef” Tour (coming here in late September). But the burger side of Flip so far includes a Wagyu burger, three kinds of veggie burgers, a lamb burger, a tuna burger and a corned beef burger. Picked for the kitchen is chef Mark Nanna, who has worked with Blais at Home.
The design is by Ai3, the groovy group responsible for lovely 4th & Swift, Holeman & Finch, the Globe and Inman Perk. (Wanna see a design rendering of Flip? Go to www.ai3online.com and click “portfolio.”)
I am soooo in on that Krispy Kreme milkshake. I just hope Blais will create one that’s cream-filled.
• Food Studio, which was closed by its Fifth Group owners to convert it into a special events space, has been rechristened Studio 887, noting the location at the space’s King Plow Arts Center address on West Marietta Street. …
• … And speaking of Fifth Group: The Atlanta restaurant group has penned a deal with chef Shaun Doty of acclaimed Shaun’s in Inman Park to turn Sala, its hip space in Virginia-Highland, into the Original El Taco, to open in mid-October. Doty is developing recipes for funky Mexican fare, including tacos and tortas. Doty will work with an as-yet-unnamed chef de cuisine, most likely someone from within the company, while remaining executive chef and owner of Shaun’s.
• Bacchanalia will pay tribute to “notable and notorious women” on Sept. 14 with an evening of food themed around past and present femmes who have left their mark on history, from Alice Waters to Coco Chanel. Each of 14 tables is designed by an area artist or chef; music, drinks and a silent auction are on the bill as well, with proceeds benefiting the Ovarian Cancer Institute. $750 per person; for tickets call Elizabeth King at 678-420-4143.
Wanna talk food? Log on to my blog at www.ajc.com/tabletalk.
