Diesel Filling Station

Early reports had Diesel Filling Station tagged as a gastropub. Maybe that’s because the new bar/restaurant opened in the Virginia-Highland space long occupied by Dish — one of the neighborhood’s original trendsetting spots. Or maybe it’s because the gastropub concept is such an über-dining fad in Atlanta right now. Whatever the case, Diesel definitely has plenty of publike attributes. But its gastronomic experiments are more like kitschy takes on bar food rather than fine dining fare. In other words, burgers and beer are really where it’s at here.

FILL ‘ER UP: Diesel owner Justin Haynie has recovered the grease monkey memories of the building’s past life as a gas station. The decidedly masculine vibe is built around brick walls (some of them punched through in jagged patterns) and steel accents. The U-shaped bar in the middle of the main room is the center of what has already become a lively drinking scene. Neon beer signs, framed car photos and flat-screen TVs constitute most of the decor. The air gets smoky after 9 p.m., and the digital jukebox provides a cranked-up soundtrack for the action. But outside, the sprawling walled-in patio offers more sedate seating.

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Becky Stein / AJC Special

The grilled salmon sandwich comes with a poached egg, lettuce and tomato, dill-caper mayo and sweet potato chips.

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GET GRUBBIN’: Besides the fairly straightforward eggs-and-pancakes weekend brunch menu, many Diesel dishes have some sort of odd twist. Sometimes that works. But too often the result just seems deliberately perverse (deep-fried chocolate cake anyone?). Tuna salsa, with chunks of tuna, tomato, avocado and onion, and pita chips for dipping, is more yucky than yummy. And black-eyed pea hummus, with stewed okra and roasted tomatoes served with corn bread, is a textural minefield. Beyond those sorts of starters, there are several fairly pricey entrees, including country-fried rib-eye, pecan-crusted trout and stuffed pork loin.

During a recent visit, what’s billed as the Beer Chicken Airline Breast appeared to be a big seller. The skinless, boneless white meat is marinated in dark ale, which keeps it juicy and gives it a pleasantly caramelized flavor. Unfortunately, the chicken is nearly lost atop a huge mound of starchy root vegetable stew, with a doughy fried grit cake on the side. Easier choices come from the Burgers and Such section of the menu. The Green Tomato Burger is an example of a different combo of ingredients that comes out just fine. It’s an 8-ounce beef patty topped with spicy horseradish cheese, a slice of fried green tomato, shredded lettuce and crispy onion straws. Pair it with an order of fries and a beer, and you have what Diesel does best.

DRINK ON: Diesel comes off as a Jägermeister and PBR tallboy beer kind of place. But the friendly bartenders can whip up cocktails and shooters with deft, glass-tossing precision. And the beer selection, which has included Victory Golden Monkey and Oskar Blues Gordon, is a cut above what you might expect.

HOURS: 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m-2 a.m. Fridays; 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Saturdays; 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays. Bar open later. Brunch menu served 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.

PRICES: Starters $5.95-$8.50; soups and salads, $3-$10.95; sandwiches and burgers $7.95-$12.50; entrees, $11.95-$16.95; desserts, $5.50-$6.50.

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: No

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Burgers and sandwiches

PARKING: Lot and street

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

SMOKING POLICY: Smoking allowed on the patio and after 9 p.m. in the bar.

NOISE LEVEL: Moderate-loud

TAKEOUT: Yes

VERDICT: Diesel brings a grungy neighborhood pub vibe and some twisted grub to the former Dish space.