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Check out these five Chinese winners

The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

The opening of the High Museum of Art’s exhibit of “The First Emperor: China’s Terracotta Army” may put you in the mood for Chinese food this weekend. Here are five of my favorite dishes from around the area:

CHEF LIU
5221 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-936-8181. Not rated
The stand-alone building in the middle of Pinetree Plaza looks more like an old-fashioned photo mart drive-through than a dumpling house, but it doesn’t stop the local Chinese community from gathering and slurping down dumplings and Chinese doughnuts by the score. My favorite, though, is the noodle dish of cha chiang mein, with its thick, spaghettilike noodles and rich bean paste sauce with a side of sliced cucumber.

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BECKY STEIN/Special

Shrimp in garlic sauce with dried Chinese black mushrooms is a satisfying choice at Cafe 101 in Doraville. You also might like the shaved ice dishes with sweetened condensed milk and fruit.

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TASTY CHINA
585 Franklin Road S.E., Suite B-3 Marietta. 770-419-9849. Three stars
This Chinese gem is one of the best Sichuan restaurants in the area, even though some of my favorites, such as the scallion bubble pancakes, left with the exit of chef Peter Chang a couple of years ago. But this restaurant’s fiery version of dan dan noodles, with spaghettilike noodles, veggies and lots of chili oil, will clear you head while satisfying your taste buds. Warming? This hot stuff would make even Shaggy and Scooby-Doo back off.

CAFE 101
5412 Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-458-8883. Two stars
Known for its excellent Sichuan and American-Chinese menu, Cafe 101 is almost as popular for its funky decor as for dishes like its super savory shrimp in garlic sauce with dried Chinese black mushrooms. But the restaurant’s shaved ice dishes, drenched in sweetened condensed milk and served with fresh strawberries, kiwi and mango, are a buffet unto themselves and a refreshing way to end a meal.

CANTON HOUSE
4825 Buford Highway, Chamblee. 770-936-9030, www.cantonhouserestaurant.com. Not rated.
This beautiful, family-oriented restaurant is one of the most reliable Chinese spots in the metro area. Dumplings from the dim sum cart are one reason why: Though sometimes a little doughy, siu mai of pork (with shrimp) is an exception — plump, firm centers filled with meaty flavor. Translucent shrimp dumplings (har gow) are splendid, filled with plump, pink shrimp and wrapped beautifully like tiny fans.

HAPPY VALLEY
5495 Jimmy Carter Blvd., Norcross, 404-633-9383. Not rated.

The Cantonese treat of dim sum awaits on the rolling carts of this longtime favorite (moved a while back to Norcross from its original on Buford Highway). Amid chicken feet and bean curd skin in black bean sauce, don’t miss the sweet buns. A must, these dense rolls are filled with an eggy vanilla custard and topped with a bright red maraschino cherry and are soft-textured and rich tasting.

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