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NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

The Real Chow Baby

Cobb Galleria, One Galleria Parkway, Suite 1-B-1

For the Journal-Constitution

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

The Real Chow Baby on Howell Mill Road brought the create-your-own stir-fry concept to Atlanta. The new Cobb Galleria location continues the winning formula with the same all-you-can-eat Asian, served in a stylish, good-time atmosphere. But in these times of economic uncertainty, the biggest draw may be that this place offers so much dining entertainment bang for the buck: $7.99 at lunch and $11.99 at dinner or $1 more for unlimited trips.

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BECKY STEIN/Special

Endless combinations of meats and seafood, sauces and veggies inspires culinary creativity at the Real Chow Baby.

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Sleek decor

Outside the rambling mall space, window boxes lined with gray stones and planted with bamboo give a nod to the Asian origins of the food. Inside, the decor is decidedly sleek and new American, which is the other side of the equation. Two bar areas and a huge dining room with a variety of tables and banquettes offer lots of seating options, from the intimate to the raucous. But the focal point for everything that happens here is the double-sided ingredient station, which leads to the open kitchen and circular, Mongolian-style grill.

Pick-and-choose

Basically, you queue up to choose from a salad bar-style selection of raw ingredients. There’s a bigger bowl for noodles, rice and vegetables, and a smaller bowl for seafood, chicken or beef “protein” items. Customize your choices with colored sticks you place in the bowls in order to communicate special instructions. Season the stuff with ladles of sauces, dry spices, and flavored oils, then hand it over to one of the chefs, who grill it all into a meal. Fast, friendly servers deliver the finished bowl to your table, along with appetizers, salads and drinks.

Dizzying possibilities

The biggest problem with the process — especially if it’s your first time — is knowing which among the 50-plus possibilities will create a coherent dish. Fortunately, there are cheat sheets that provide suggested recipes. New American Pad Thai is a good start. It’s a tasty mix of rice noodles, garlic, sprouts, peanuts, cilantro, one ladle each of peanut and kung pao sauce, egg and chicken. Of course, for that extra dollar, you can go back as many times as you like — an inexpensive (if fattening) way to experiment with different combos.

Apps and drinks

If you want to hang at the bar or relax a bit before entering the stir-fry fray, there are plenty of appetizers and drinks to choose from. Just be warned, those items aren’t quite as budget-friendly. The soups, potstickers, egg rolls and shrimp tempura run $3.99-$7.99.

The ginger salad makes a refreshing starter, with mixed greens, carrots, tomatoes and crispy strips of fried won tons. Flaky, buttery roti bread is a really good add-on. Drinks include wine by the glass or bottle, a small selection of beers, and a good number of cocktails priced under $8.

AT A GLANCE

Signature dish: Create-your-own stir-fry

Entree prices: $7.99-$12.99

Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5-10 p.m. Sundays.

Reservations: Yes, for six or more

Credit cards: Yes

Online: www.therealchowbaby.com

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